Podcasts > The Rest Is History > 425. The History Of Chocolate

425. The History Of Chocolate

By Jack Davenport

Explore the rich and flavorful journey of chocolate from its revered role in ancient Mesoamerican civilizations to its status as a beloved global staple in The Rest Is History podcast with Dominic Sandbrook and Tom Holland. In an episode tantamount to a narrated confectionery, the duo examines how the Olmecs laid the groundwork for chocolate's cultural importance, a legacy passed on to the Maya and Aztecs and symbolized in their religious and social practices.

Venture through the historic lanes of Europe where chocolate transitioned from a foreign curiosity to a symbol of luxury among the elite, sparking diverse reactions from religious authorities and fostering a new social culture in chocolate houses. Learn about the transformative era of industrialization in Britain, where pioneering families like the Frys and the Cadburys revolutionized chocolate production, leading to mass consumption and iconic brands that shaped how we relish this decadent treat today. Join the hosts on this delectable historical voyage tracing the evolution of chocolate through civilizations, courts, debates, and industrial innovations.

425. The History Of Chocolate

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425. The History Of Chocolate

1-Page Summary

Mesoamerican Origins

The Olmec civilization, recognized for their colossal head sculptures, also pioneered the use of cocoa beans. The first to grind cocoa beans, the Olmecs incorporated chocolate in their rituals and sacrificial ceremonies. This practice was inherited by the Maya and subsequently the Aztecs, underlining the profound social and ritual significance of chocolate in Mesoamerican cultures.

Introduction to Europe

Spain introduced chocolate to Europe following their conquest of Mexico, where they initially undervalued cocoa beans compared to gold. In 1544, chocolate reached Spain as a gift for King Philip II and then spread to other European courts, establishing itself as an exotic and elite beverage.

Chocolate in 18th Century Europe

In Europe, chocolate was a luxury item, exclusive to the affluent due to high import costs. Its status sparked religious debate on whether it broke fasting rules, with opinions varying until Pope Alexander VII declared liquids did not break the fast. Chocolate houses became fashionable social hubs, and chocolate gained a reputation as an aphrodisiac, enhancing its allure in society.

Industrialization in 19th Century Britain

The Fry family used a steam engine to enhance cocoa bean grinding, setting a precedent for industrial chocolate production. Concurrently, the Cadbury family established their chocolate factory at Bournville, later building a model village for workers demonstrating Quaker values of social responsibility and ethical entrepreneurship.

Mass Consumption After World War I

Post-World War I, the price of chocolate dropped significantly, amplifying sales. Technological advancements led to a surge in consumption as chocolate became affordable for the masses. Cadbury’s Dairy Milk bar became iconic, with other products like Bournville fruit and nut bars enhancing the brand's dominance in the chocolate market.

1-Page Summary

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • The Quaker values of social responsibility and ethical entrepreneurship emphasize principles such as honesty, integrity, and fairness in business practices. Quakers, also known as the Religious Society of Friends, prioritize community welfare, equality, and ethical decision-making in their commercial endeavors. These values guide Quaker businesses like the Cadbury family's chocolate factory in Bournville, where they aimed to create a positive impact on society through their operations. Quaker beliefs influenced the establishment of worker-friendly policies, including improved working conditions and the development of model communities like Bournville.
  • The Fry family's use of a steam engine for cocoa bean grinding was a significant advancement in chocolate production during the 19th century. By employing a steam engine, they mechanized and improved the grinding process, increasing efficiency and output. This innovation helped pave the way for industrial-scale chocolate manufacturing, revolutionizing the industry. The adoption of steam power allowed for larger-scale production, contributing to the widespread availability of chocolate to a broader audience.
  • The Bournville model village was established by the Cadbury family in the late 19th century as a housing development for their workers near their chocolate factory in Bournville, England. It aimed to provide improved living conditions for employees, including affordable housing, green spaces, and community facilities. The village reflected the Cadbury's Quaker values of social responsibility and ethical entrepreneurship, emphasizing worker welfare and overall well-being. Bournville became a notable example of industrial philanthropy and urban planning, influencing future models of worker housing and community development.
  • In the past, there were debates within religious circles about whether consuming chocolate broke fasting rules due to its richness and indulgence. Some religious authorities questioned if drinking liquids like chocolate during fasting periods violated the abstinence requirements. The issue was eventually clarified by Pope Alexander VII, who declared that liquids, including chocolate, did not break the fast. This ruling helped alleviate concerns and allowed chocolate to be enjoyed without religious guilt during fasting periods.
  • Pope Alexander VII's declaration in the 17th century clarified that liquids, including beverages like chocolate, did not break the fasting rules observed by Catholics. This ruling was significant as it allowed followers to consume liquids like chocolate during fasting periods without violating religious practices. The distinction between solid and liquid foods in fasting regulations was an important consideration for the consumption of items like chocolate in religious contexts. Pope Alexander VII's decision provided clarity on the acceptability of consuming certain liquids, contributing to the evolving understanding of fasting practices within the Catholic Church.

Counterarguments

  • The Olmec's role in the use of cocoa beans is not fully understood, and there is ongoing debate among historians and archaeologists about the extent of their contributions compared to later Mesoamerican cultures.
  • While the Maya and Aztecs did inherit many practices from the Olmecs, they also developed their own unique cultural relationships with chocolate that were not solely derived from Olmec traditions.
  • The Spanish may have initially undervalued cocoa beans, but they quickly recognized their value and began to cultivate and trade them as a commodity.
  • The introduction of chocolate to Europe was not solely through Spain; there were other European nations involved in the colonization of the Americas that may have also played a role in its introduction.
  • The narrative that chocolate was exclusively for the affluent in 18th-century Europe oversimplifies the historical context; there were periods and places where chocolate was more accessible to a broader segment of the population.
  • The religious debate over chocolate and fasting was more complex, with various authorities and regions having different opinions, and it was not solely resolved by Pope Alexander VII's declaration.
  • The Fry family's use of a steam engine was significant, but it was part of a broader trend of industrialization that included many other innovations in chocolate production.
  • The Cadbury family's establishment of Bournville and their social responsibility practices were progressive for the time, but they also benefited from the broader economic and social systems that allowed for such philanthropy.
  • The drop in chocolate prices after World War I was not solely due to technological advancements; it was also influenced by changes in global trade, labor practices, and economic policies.
  • While Cadbury's Dairy Milk bar and Bournville fruit and nut bars were popular, other brands and products also contributed to the growth of the chocolate market and had their own loyal customer bases.

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425. The History Of Chocolate

Mesoamerican Origins

The Olmecs, best known for their giant stone head sculptures, have made lasting contributions to culinary history with their use of cocoa beans.

Olmecs grind cocoa beans for ritual drink

Sandbrook brings to light that the Olmecs may have been the first civilization in Mesoamerica to grind cocoa beans. Archaeological findings suggest that the Olmecs crushed cocoa beans and that the consumption of cocoa or chocolate was likely a part of ritual practices, including sacrificial ceremonies.

Passed down traditions to Aztecs

This ancient tradition of grinding cocoa beans for a bitt ...

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Mesoamerican Origins

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • The Olmecs' giant stone head sculptures are significant because they are massive stone carvings depicting human faces, believed to represent rulers or deities. These sculptures showcase the Olmecs' advanced sculptural skills and artistic expression. They are considered iconic symbols of Olmec civilization and are found in various archaeological sites in Mesoamerica. The purpose and exact meaning behind these sculptures are still debated among historians and archaeologists.
  • The tradition of grinding cocoa beans for a bitter drink was passed from the Olmecs to the Maya, who then shared their techniques with the Aztecs. This transmission of knowledge and practices helped in the spread of chocolate consump ...

Counterarguments

  • The assertion that the Olmecs were the first to grind cocoa beans is based on archaeological findings, but it is possible that earlier or contemporaneous cultures also used cocoa beans in similar ways, but evidence has not yet been discovered or recognized.
  • While there is evidence of cocoa consumption among the Olmecs, the exact nature of its use in rituals, including sacrificial ceremonies, may be interpreted differently by various scholars, and the specific details of these practices are not fully understood.
  • The transmission of cultural practices, such as the grinding of cocoa beans, is complex and may not have been a direct or linear process from the Olmecs to the Maya. Other cultures could have influenced or contributed to the development of these traditions.
  • The Maya may have developed their own chocolate beverage techniques independently of the Olmecs, and while there may have been some ...

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425. The History Of Chocolate

Introduction to Europe

European exposure to chocolate began with the Spanish encounter of cocoa beans in Mexico and the eventual introduction of the bitter chocolate drink to Spain.

Spanish encounter cocoa beans in Mexico

When the Spanish arrived in Mexico, they encountered cocoa beans, which the Aztecs highly valued. At first, the Spaniards did not appreciate the cacao beans as much as they did gold. The documentary sources suggest a discussion among the Spanish about whether they realized the value of cacao beans and their level of interest in them upon first encounter.

Bitter chocolate drink reaches Spain in 1544

The bitter chocolate drink made its way ...

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Introduction to Europe

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • The Aztecs highly valued cocoa beans not only as a form of currency but also for their use in religious ceremonies and as a luxury beverage. Cocoa beans held significant cultural and economic importance in Aztec society, symbolizing wealth, power, and divine connections. The Aztecs believed that cocoa beans were a gift from the gods and used them in various rituals and offerings. The beans were also ground into a paste to create a frothy, bitter drink that was reserved for nobility and special occasions.
  • The Spaniards initially did not appreciate cocoa beans because they were unfamiliar with their value and uses. They were more focused on gold and other treasures they encountered in the New World. The concept of using cocoa beans to make a bitter chocolate drink was not immediately apparent to them. Over time, as they learned about the significance of cocoa beans to the Aztecs and the delicious drink that could be made from them, their appreciation grew.
  • The term "documentary sources" in this context typically refers to historical documents, records, or writings that provide evidence or information about past events. These sources could include letters, diaries, official reports, or other written accounts from the time period being discussed. They are used by historians to study and understand historical events and perspectives.
  • The term "New World" typically refers to t ...

Counterarguments

  • The value the Spaniards placed on cocoa beans may have evolved over time, and initial disinterest does not necessarily reflect the eventual importance they attributed to chocolate.
  • The narrative that the Spaniards introduced chocolate as an elite beverage might oversimplify the complex process of how foods are adopted and adapted across cultures.
  • The text implies a direct and immediate appreciation of chocolate in European courts, but historical accounts suggest that the acceptance and popularity of chocolate in Europe was a gradual process.
  • The focus on King Philip II receiving chocolate as a gift might overshadow the roles of other individuals and groups who contributed to the spread of chocolate in Europe.
  • The text does ...

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425. The History Of Chocolate

Chocolate in 18th Century Europe

Chocolate, having been brought from the New World, gained significant cultural and social significance in 18th century Europe. Its journey from a luxury item to a widely enjoyed treat is intertwined with economic, religious, and social factors.

Elite/luxury status item

Cocoa beans were subject to high import duties, making them very expensive in Europe. The cost was so prohibitive that a skilled tradesman might have to work an entire week just to afford one pound of cocoa beans. Due to its high cost, chocolate was typically purchased ground and pressed into small cakes that were then wrapped in paper, signifying its status as an item enjoyed primarily by the elite.

Debates if chocolate breaks religious fasts

The consumption of chocolate also sparked religious debates during the 18th century. Dominicans argued over whether chocolate consumption was appropriate, specifically discussing whether it broke religious fasts. The debates became so heated that there was consideration of asking the pope to ban chocolate due to its association with indigenous rituals, deemed controversial by the Dominicans.

Pope Pius V, after trying chocolate himself in 1569, found it unappealing and did not see the need to ban it, which implicitly suggested that it was not a threat to religious fasts. In 1636, Antonio de Leon Pinello wrote that chocolate did indeed break an ecclesiastical fast, while others such as Tomás Hurtado and Cardinal Francesco Maria Brancaccio argued that, since chocolate was consumed as a drink, it did not break a fast. Finally, in 1666, Pope Alexander VII declared "liquidum non frangit jejunum," establishing that liquids, including chocolate, do not break the fast.

Consumed in fashionable ...

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Chocolate in 18th Century Europe

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • In the 18th century, religious debates arose regarding whether consuming chocolate broke religious fasts. Some argued that chocolate did break fasts due to its indulgent nature, while others believed that as a liquid, it did not violate fasting rules. The debates led to differing opinions among religious figures, with Pope Alexander VII ultimately declaring that liquids, including chocolate, did not break the fast. This clarification helped establish the acceptance of chocolate consumption within religious fasting practices.
  • Pope Pius V trying chocolate in 1569 was significant because it played a role in the historical debates surrounding chocolate consumption and religious fasting practices in the 17th century. His personal experience with chocolate influenced the subsequent discussions within the Catholic Church about whether chocolate should be banned due to its perceived impact on religious fasts. Ultimately, Pope Pius V's lack of interest in banning chocolate implied that it was not considered a threat to religious practices, contributing to the eventual clarification by Pope Alexander VII in 1666 that liquids, including chocolate, do not break the fast.
  • In the 18th century, there were debates among Dominicans and other religious figures about whether consuming chocolate broke religious fasts. Some argued that chocolate did break fasts, while others believed that since it was consumed as a drink, it did not. Ultimately, in 1666, Pope Alexander VII clarified that liquids, including chocolate, did not break the fast.
  • The Latin phrase "liquidum non frangit jejunum" translates to "liquid does not break the fast." It was declared by Pope Alexander VII in 1666, estab ...

Counterarguments

  • While cocoa beans were indeed subject to high import duties, the extent to which they were a luxury item might have varied across different parts of Europe and over time, as trade routes expanded and production methods improved.
  • The religious debates over chocolate may have been more nuanced, with different religious orders and local practices influencing the stance on chocolate consumption during fasts, beyond the highlighted discussions.
  • Pope Pius V's personal distaste for chocolate does not necessarily imply a universal lack of threat to religious fasts; individual opinions on taste do not always reflect broader religious or cultural views.
  • Pope Alexander VII's declaration might have been interpreted differently across various regions and by different authorities within the Church, affecting the uniformity of the practice regarding chocolate and fasting.
  • While chocolate houses were indeed fashionable and served as social gathering places, they may have also been exclusive and not representative of the broader population's experience with chocolate. ...

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425. The History Of Chocolate

Industrialization in 19th Century Britain

The 19th century in Britain was marked by significant industrial advancements, with the chocolate industry being no exception. The rise of family businesses leveraging new technologies illustrates the period's entrepreneurial spirit and social responsibility, particularly within the Quaker community.

Fry family uses steam engine to produce chocolate

The industrial revolution in Britain saw the emergence of innovative uses of technology in production. Joseph Storrs-Fry, who took control of his family company in 1795, harnessed the power of a James Watt steam engine to grind cocoa beans. This efficiency enhancement set the benchmark for industrial production in the chocolate industry and helped the Frys establish the largest cocoa works in the world by the early 1800s.

Joseph Fry, a Quaker and the family patriarch, had originally launched an apothecary business in Bristol in 1753, where chocolate was sold as a medicinal product. By the 1760s, the medicinal chocolate Joseph Fry sold was promoted in 50 different towns across England.

Quaker Cadbury family builds factory at Bournville

Parallel to the rise of the Fry's chocolate empire, the Quaker Cadbury family from Birmingham made their mark on the industry. John Cadbury, who also adhered to the Quaker tenets like Fry, opened a shop in 1824, selling tea, coffee, and drinking chocolate. By 1831, the expansion into a factory opened the door for Cadbury to innovate further, eventually leading them to launch their first Easter egg in 1875.

The discussion leads up to when the Cadbury family, taking advantage of Britain's industrial wave surely energized by Quaker entrepreneurs, bought rural farmland outside Birmingham in 1878. This land had a stream named the Bourn running through it, which contributed to the site being called Bournville, a name chosen for its connotations of a refined town.

Bournville model industrial village built for workers

The Cadbury family, driven by their Quaker beliefs in social responsibility and spearheaded by notable figures like George Cadbury, established more ...

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Industrialization in 19th Century Britain

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Quaker beliefs, rooted in principles of simplicity, equality, and social responsibility, influenced Quaker entrepreneurs like the Fry and Cadbury families in the 19th century. These beliefs guided their business practices, leading to initiatives such as worker welfare programs, ethical production methods, and community development. The Quaker emphasis on social justice and ethical conduct played a pivotal role in shaping the industrial landscape of the chocolate industry during this period. The integration of Quaker values into business operations reflected a commitment to creating a more equitable and socially responsible society.
  • The use of a steam engine in chocolate production by Joseph Storrs-Fry symbolizes the integration of new technologies during the industrial revolution in Britain. Steam engines revolutionized manufacturing processes by providing efficient power sources, leading to increased production capacity and industrial growth. This innovation marked a shift from manual labor to mechanized production, laying the foundation for the widespread industrialization that characterized the 19th century. The adoption of steam engines in various industries, including chocolate manufacturing, accelerated economic development and transformed traditional production methods.
  • The Fry and Cadbury families were influential in the 19th-century British chocolate industry, known for their innovative approaches and social responsibility. They leveraged new technologies and business strategies to revolutionize chocolate production and distribution. The Quaker values of ethical entrepreneurship and worker welfare guided their actions, leading to the establishment of successful chocolate empires and the development of model industrial villages like Bournville. Their impact extended beyond business success, shaping the industry's standards and setting precedents for corporate social responsibility.
  • A model village was a planned community built by employers to provide housing and amenities for their worke ...

Counterarguments

  • While the Fry and Cadbury families are celebrated for their innovations and social responsibility, it's important to recognize that the success of the British chocolate industry was also built on the exploitation of colonies and slave labor, particularly in cocoa-producing regions.
  • The narrative of Quaker benevolence in the industrial era can overshadow the broader context of industrialization, which often involved harsh working conditions, child labor, and environmental degradation.
  • The model village of Bournville, while progressive, was still paternalistic in nature, with the Cadbury family exerting significant control over the lives of their workers, which may not align with modern views on worker autonomy and rights.
  • The benefits and pension scheme at Bournville, though forward-thinking, may not have been as comprehensive or accessible as modern labor standards would require.
  • The focus on the Quaker influence ...

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425. The History Of Chocolate

Mass Consumption After World War I

The period following World War I marked a significant transformation in mass consumption, particularly in the British chocolate industry, where prices sharply fell, and sales soared.

Prices fall sharply, sales boom

In the wake of World War I, sales of chocolate went "through the roof," in part due to a dramatic price drop of 70% for products like Cadbury's Dairy Milk in the decade after the war. This was facilitated by technological innovations that reduced production costs and boosted output.

Cadbury, which had become the world's largest chocolate producer and exporter during the empire's apex, contributed importantly to this trend. The affordability of chocolate post-war allowed more people to indulge in what was once considered a luxury.

In 1905, Cadbury’s launch of the Dairy Milk chocolate bar revolutionized the chocolate market, with the company promoting the high milk content in accordance with its Quaker values. The Dairy Milk bar quickly ascended to become the mo ...

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Mass Consumption After World War I

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Quaker values are principles based on the beliefs of the Religious Society of Friends, emphasizing simplicity, equality, integrity, and community. These values guide Quakers in their daily lives and business practices, promoting ethical behavior and social responsibility. Quaker-founded companies like Cadbury often incorporated these values into their operations, influencing decisions on product quality, employee welfare, and community engagement. The Quaker values of honesty, fairness, and compassion played a significant role in shaping the ethical framework of businesses like Cadbury during the early 20th century.
  • Bournville fruit and nut is a chocolate bar introduced by Cadbury in 1924. It is a variation of the original Dairy Milk bar, containing fruit and nut pieces in the chocolate. The Bournville name comes from the model village of Bournville in Birmingham, England, where Cadbury had its factory. This product was part of Cadbury's efforts to expand its range of offerings and cater to different consumer preferences.
  • The Flake bar ...

Counterarguments

  • While the text suggests that technological innovations were the sole reason for the reduction in production costs and price drops, it's important to consider other factors such as economies of scale, supply chain improvements, or changes in raw material costs that could have also contributed to the affordability of chocolate.
  • The claim that Cadbury's Dairy Milk bar revolutionized the chocolate market in 1905 could be contested by acknowledging that other chocolate companies may have also introduced innovative products around the same time, contributing to the evolution of the market.
  • The assertion that the Dairy Milk bar became the most famous chocolate bar globally might be challenged by pointing out that fame can be subjective and varies by region; other chocolate bars may have been more popular in different parts of the world.
  • The text credits Cadbury with becoming the world's largest chocolate producer post-war, but it would be worth considering the competitive landscape of the time and the presence of other major chocolate producers who may have also had significant market shares.
  • The idea that Cadbury's products alone shaped British confectionery consumption habits could be countered by recognizing the influence of other brands and cultural factors on consumption patterns.
  • The statement that chocolate became more affordable post-war might overlook the economic hardships faced by many individuals in the post-war period, which c ...

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