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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

By Deb Perelman & J. Kenji López-Alt (therecipewithkenjianddeb@gmail.com)

Join kitchen wizards Kenji López-Alt and Deb Perelman on "The Recipe with Kenji and Deb" as they stir up a flavorful discussion on achieving that nostalgic taste of Kraft mac and cheese we all crave from childhood. López-Alt shares insights into the taste preferences of kids for the classic boxed version alongside memorable tweaks his mother used to enrich their family's dish. Perelman reminisces about the joys of this occasional treat and delves into quick methods for crafting a stovetop mac and cheese that delivers homemade flavor in a fraction of the time.

In this episode, these culinary masters debate the merits of different cheeses for achieving the perfect blend of creamy texture and robust flavor in mac and cheese sauces. While López-Alt suggests the merits of milder cheeses for a consistent, kid-friendly texture, Perelman champions the depth provided by sharp, aged varieties. They also compare the conveniences of one-pot methods with traditional baked options and contemplate the divisive notion of introducing veggies into this iconic comfort food, all while offering tips for personalizing the dish to your own taste. Whether you're a seasoned home cook or a beginner in the kitchen, tune in for a spoonful of inspiration on reimagining this cheesy classic.

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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

This is a preview of the Shortform summary of the Feb 26, 2024 episode of the The Recipe with Kenji and Deb

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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

1-Page Summary

Nostalgia for Kraft mac and cheese

Deb Perelman and J. Kenji López-Alt share a cherished connection with the classic Kraft mac and cheese from their childhoods. They remember it as a creamy, salty, and cheesy delight that has stayed with them into adulthood. For Perelman, it was an occasional treat in a home that rarely bought packaged food. López-Alt identifies the unique, consistent taste that often leads to a preference over homemade versions, especially among children. He also recalls how his mother would enhance the dish by adding extra cheese and butter to mimic the richer Velveeta style that he loved.

Techniques for quick stovetop mac and cheese with homemade flavor

López-Alt dishes out a method of making mac and cheese on the stovetop in the time it takes to boil pasta, utilizing a precise amount of water to retain starch that is crucial for the later emulsification of the sauce. He introduces evaporated milk as a key ingredient that allows the cheese to blend without curdling due to its stable proteins. Perelman focuses on a shortcut bechamel with sharp cheese, such as Parmesan, for maximum flavor impact, aiming to recreate the buttery background of boxed mac and cheese sauces.

Tweaking Cheeses for Smooth Emulsified Sauces vs Aged Flavor

López-Alt and Perelman present two different cheese approaches for their sauces. López-Alt advocates using younger cheeses like mild cheddar or American for a smooth texture while avoiding the graininess that can come from more aged cheeses. Nevertheless, Perelman stands by her use of sharp, aged cheeses, such as white cheddar and Parmesan, to pack a flavorful punch in smaller amounts. The chefs underscore that cheese selection is a balancing act between flavor strength and sauce texture.

One-pot method vs oven baked mac and cheese

López-Alt highlights the quick and convenient one-pot stovetop method, noting its similarity to the boxed mac and cheese in terms of ease and speed, ideal for unexpected guests or children's friends. The one-pot method relies on staple pantry items and can be completed swiftly, making it a highly practical option.

Additions like peas, broccoli, other vegetables

Vegetables stirred into mac and cheese evoke mixed reactions, as López-Alt and Perelman discuss through their experiences with their own children. López-Alt celebrates the combination of peas with mac and cheese, which he and his daughter enjoy. On the other hand, Perelman's children have shown resistance to broccoli in their mac and cheese. Nonetheless, López-Alt proposes integrating quick pickled jalapeños for an added kick to the creamy dish. The consensus seems to be that additions are subject to personal and familial taste preferences.

1-Page Summary

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Emulsification of the sauce is the process of combining two liquids that don't naturally mix, like oil and water, into a stable mixture. In the context of mac and cheese, it involves blending the cheese and other ingredients with the liquid components to create a smooth and creamy sauce. This process is crucial for achieving a consistent texture and preventing the sauce from separating or becoming grainy. Emulsifiers like evaporated milk help stabilize the mixture and ensure a uniform, velvety consistency in the sauce.
  • A béchamel sauce is a classic French sauce made from a roux (butter and flour) and milk, seasoned with nutmeg. It is one of the foundational sauces in French cuisine and serves as a base for many other sauces, such as Mornay (béchamel with cheese). The sauce is named after Louis de Béchameil, a French financier who held a prestigious position in the 17th century. Variants of béchamel exist in different culinary traditions worldwide, each with its own adaptations and names.
  • The graininess of aged cheeses can occur due to the breakdown of proteins and fats during the aging process, leading to a less smooth texture. Younger cheeses like mild cheddar or American are often preferred for their smoother consistency, while aged cheeses like sharp cheddar or Parmesan can develop a grainy texture over time. This difference in texture is a result of how the cheese matures and the crystallization of components within the cheese as it ages. The choice between using younger or aged cheeses in mac and cheese recipes can impact the final texture and mouthfeel of the dish.
  • The one-pot method for making mac and cheese involves cooking the pasta and preparing the cheese sauce all in the same pot. This method is known for its simplicity and efficiency, as it reduces the number of dishes needed for cleanup. By cooking the pasta directly in the sauce, the starch released from the pasta helps thicken the sauce, resulting in a creamy and flavorful dish. This technique is often favored for its convenience and speed, making it a popular choice for quick and easy meals.
  • Quick pickled jalapeños are jalapeño peppers that have been pickled in a vinegar-based solution with sugar and salt. This quick pickling process allows the jalapeños to develop a tangy, slightly sweet, and spicy flavor in a short amount of time, typically within a few hours to a day. They can be used to add a zesty kick and crunch to various dishes, including mac and cheese, sandwiches, tacos, and salads. Quick pickled jalapeños are a versatile condiment that can enhance the overall taste and texture of a dish with their vibrant flavor profile.

Counterarguments

  • While Deb Perelman and J. Kenji López-Alt cherish Kraft mac and cheese, some might argue that nostalgia can sometimes overshadow the actual quality of the food, and that revisiting such childhood favorites as adults might not always live up to the cherished memories.
  • The preference for Kraft mac and cheese's unique taste over homemade versions might not be universal; some individuals may have grown up with homemade mac and cheese as their standard and may find it superior in taste and quality.
  • The method of adding extra cheese and butter to boxed mac and cheese, as López-Alt's mother did, could be seen as counterproductive by those who prefer healthier or less rich alternatives.
  • López-Alt's quick stovetop method using evaporated milk might not appeal to everyone, as some might prefer the traditional roux-based method for making mac and cheese for its taste and texture.
  • Perelman's shortcut bechamel with sharp cheese might be criticized for not being a true bechamel, which traditionally involves a roux and gradual addition of milk, and some might argue that the shortcut version lacks the depth of flavor of the traditional method.
  • The use of younger cheeses for a smooth texture might be challenged by those who prefer the complex flavors that come with aged cheeses, even if it means a slightly grainier sauce.
  • The one-pot stovetop method's convenience might be seen as less important than the baked method's depth of flavor and crispy topping, which some people might prefer.
  • The addition of vegetables to mac and cheese, while a way to increase nutritional value, might be criticized for altering the classic taste and texture that many people love about the dish.
  • The idea of integrating quick pickled jalapeños might not be appealing to those who prefer their mac and cheese to be mild and without spicy elements.
  • The assertion that additions are subject to personal and familial taste preferences might be met with the counterargument that certain classic dishes should be left as is, to preserve their traditional essence.

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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

Nostalgia for Kraft mac and cheese

Deb Perelman and J. Kenji López-Alt share nostalgia for the classic Kraft mac and cheese, fondly recalling its unique place in their childhoods and the creamy, salty, cheesy qualities that make it memorable.

Kind of mac and cheese kids will reliably eat

Perelman reminisces about the rare occasions she was treated to Kraft mac and cheese in an "ingredient household" where boxed or packaged food was not the norm. López-Alt acknowledges that Kraft mac and cheese has a particular, uniform taste that homemade mac and cheese can sometimes fail to match, noting instances when kids expressed disappointment because the homemade version didn't taste like the Kraft product they were used to at home.

Memories of a special "babysitter coming over" meal

For Perelman, Kraft mac and cheese wasn't just an ordinary meal; it was what her mom would prepare especially when the babysitter was coming over. It holds a place as a treasured memory of a comforting and special meal from her youth.

Creamy, salty, cheesy appeal

Both Perelman and López-Alt delve into ...

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Nostalgia for Kraft mac and cheese

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • In this context, an "ingredient household" typically refers to a home where fresh, whole ingredients are preferred over processed or pre-packaged foods. It suggests a focus on cooking meals from scratch rather than relying on ready-made or convenience foods.
  • Homemade mac and cheese typically refers to macaroni and cheese that is prepared from scratch at home, using ingredients like pasta, cheese, milk, and butter. It is a dish made without relying on pre-packaged mixes or instant products like the Kraft mac and cheese mentioned in the text. Homemade versions often allow for customization in terms of ingredients and flavors compared to the standardized taste of store-bought options.
  • "Kraft product" typically refers to food items produced by the Kraft Heinz Company, a major American food conglomerate known for its wide range of packaged and processed foods. In this context, it specifically denotes the Kraft macaroni and cheese product, a popular boxed mac and cheese meal kit that has been a staple in many households for generations. The term "Kraft product" is used to distinguish this specific brand of mac and cheese from other homemade or store-bought varieties.
  • "Kraft dinner" is a term commonly used in Canada to refer to Kraft Mac & Cheese, a popular packaged macaroni and cheese product. It is known for its dried macaroni pasta and processed cheese powder, typically sold in a cardboard box. The term "Kraft dinner" is specific to Canada, ...

Counterarguments

  • While Kraft mac and cheese is a reliable favorite for some children, others may prefer different brands or homemade versions due to varying tastes and dietary restrictions.
  • The uniform taste of Kraft mac and cheese might not be universally appealing; some individuals may find it too artificial or lacking in the complexity of flavors that can be achieved with homemade recipes.
  • The nostalgia associated with Kraft mac and cheese may not be shared by everyone, as personal childhood experiences with food can greatly differ.
  • The special memory of having Kraft mac and cheese when a babysitter was coming over could be seen as promoting a less healthy option for convenience, which might not align with current nutritional guidance for children.
  • The sensory appeal of the distinct orange cheese powder in Kraft mac and cheese could be criticized for containing artificial colors and flavors, which som ...

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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

Techniques for quick stovetop mac and cheese with homemade flavor

Kenji López-Alt and Deb Perelman share their expertise on crafting a delicious stovetop mac and cheese that is not only expeditious but also packed with the sumptuous flavor of a homemade dish.

Making a cheese emulsion using evaporated milk and pasta water starch

López-Alt aims for his stovetop mac and cheese to come together as quickly as boiling pasta, emphasizing ease of preparation. He uses just enough water to cover the pasta, then brings it to a boil, retaining starch in the pot to help create the sauce later. Cooking pasta directly in milk might lead to scorching, but because evaporated milk is less prone to scalding, it makes a more stable emulsion. Evaporated milk contains milk proteins that help emulsify the cheese, preventing fat from separating and proteins from clumping. López-Alt chases the perfect mac and cheese, cooking pasta in water until it evaporates, leaving hyper-concentrated pasta water full of starch in the pot, which assists in sauce emulsification. While he emphasizes cooking the pasta mostly in water, ensuring most of the water is gone before adding the evaporated milk, he does not explicitly mention stirring the mixture off heat for emulsification.

Perelman remarks on the resulting mac and cheese as being thick, creamy, luxurious, and glossy. She also discusses her past skepticism about cheese emulsifying properly with heat, but notes that evaporated milk allows the cheese to be cooked without curdling. López-Alt's approach ensures that none of the starch is lost and the water is cooked down until it evaporates, adding the milk and cheese at the right time to avoid a gummy texture, although he doesn’t explicitly state the process takes place off heat.

Shortcut bechamel with sharp cheese for flavor impact

Kenj ...

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Techniques for quick stovetop mac and cheese with homemade flavor

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Emulsification in cooking is the process of combining two liquids that don't naturally mix, like oil and water, into a stable mixture. This is achieved by breaking down one liquid into tiny droplets and dispersing it evenly throughout the other liquid. Emulsifiers, like proteins in milk, help stabilize the mixture by preventing the liquids from separating. The result is a smooth, creamy texture in dishes like sauces and dressings.
  • Starch plays a crucial role in sauce emulsification by helping to bind together the fat and liquid components of the sauce. In the context of mac and cheese, starch from pasta water helps create a stable emulsion when combined with evaporated milk and cheese. This emulsion prevents the fat from separating and the proteins from clumping, resulting in a creamy and cohesive sauce. Starch acts as a thickening agent and contributes to the overall texture and consistency of the sauce.
  • A bechamel sauce is a classic French white sauce made by whisking together butter, flour, and milk. It serves as a base for many dishes and adds a creamy texture. Mornay sauce is a variation of bechamel that includes cheese, typically Gruyère or Parmesan, adding a rich and cheesy flavor to the sauce. Mornay sauce is commonly used in dishes like macaroni and cheese to enhance the dish with a velvety, cheesy finish.
  • Sodium citrate is a salt derived from citric acid, commonly used in cooking as an emulsifier. In cheese-making, it helps create a smooth, creamy texture by acting as a stabilizer for the emulsion of fats and liqu ...

Counterarguments

  • While López-Alt's technique of using evaporated milk and pasta water starch is innovative, some might argue that traditional methods of making a roux-based cheese sauce can yield a more complex flavor profile.
  • The method of cooking pasta until the water evaporates might not be foolproof for all types of stovetops or pans, potentially leading to unevenly cooked pasta or a burnt bottom layer.
  • Some chefs or home cooks might prefer fresh milk or cream over evaporated milk for a richer, fresher taste, despite the emulsification benefits of evaporated milk.
  • Perelman's use of a bechamel sauce as a base for mac and cheese, while classic, may be considered too time-consuming or heavy compared to lighter, modern interpretations of the dish.
  • The use of sharp cheeses like Parmesan or Pecorino can be overpowering for some palates, and others might prefer the milder taste of traditional c ...

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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

Tweaking Cheeses for Smooth Emulsified Sauces vs Aged Flavor

When crafting the perfect cheese sauce for dishes like macaroni and cheese, understanding the characteristics of different cheeses and how they blend with various methods can be the difference between a smooth, creamy sauce and a grainy disappointment.

Using younger mild melting cheeses with evaporated milk method

Kenji López-Alt describes a method of sauce-making that relies on gentler, more malleable cheeses.

Avoiding graininess with less aged cheeses

López-Alt recommends sticking to milder cheddars, medium cheddar, or cheeses like American cheese or Fontina for a smoother sauce, as these cheeses melt well and are more forgiving. He notes that aged cheeses like extra sharp cheddar or hard cheeses such as Parmesan can be more challenging to work into a sauce, as their aged nature and crumbliness can lead to graininess and less emulsification in the final product.

Sharp cheddars and pecorino work with shortcut bechamel

Conversely, Deb Perelman expresses a preference for using sharper, aged cheeses in her recipes, specifically when building on a bechamel base.

Can use small amounts of these strongly flavored cheeses

Perelman delves into her fondness for aged, flavorful cheeses, such as sharp white cheddar and Parmesan or pecorino. She notes that a mix of these cheeses can be utilized to achieve a stronger flavor. She recommends using these pungent cheeses in smaller quantities because their flavor intensity can be overwhelming. She adds that a classic flavor profile can be obtained by combining a sharp age ...

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Tweaking Cheeses for Smooth Emulsified Sauces vs Aged Flavor

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Emulsified sauces are sauces where two liquids that don't usually mix well, like oil and water, are combined into a smooth, stable mixture. This is achieved by using an emulsifier, like egg yolks or mustard, to help the liquids stay blended. Emulsified sauces can be creamy and rich, such as mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce, adding flavor and texture to dishes. The process of creating an emulsified sauce involves slowly incorporating one liquid into the other while constantly mixing to ensure a homogeneous mixture.
  • A bechamel base is a classic French sauce made from a roux (butter and flour) and milk, seasoned with nutmeg. It serves as a foundational element in cooking, providing a creamy and versatile sauce that can be used as a base for various dishes. Bechamel is known for its smooth texture and ability to bind ingredients together in recipes, adding richness and flavor. It is a key component in French cuisine and serves as the base for other sauces like Mornay, which includes cheese in the bechamel sauce.
  • Emulsification in the context of cheese sauces involves blending two substances that typical ...

Counterarguments

  • While younger cheeses are recommended for smooth sauces, some aged cheeses, when properly incorporated, can also contribute to a creamy texture without graininess.
  • The use of additives like sodium citrate can allow even aged and hard cheeses to emulsify smoothly, challenging the notion that only young cheeses can create smooth sauces.
  • The idea that sharp cheddars and pecorino only work with a bechamel base can be contested, as these cheeses can also be successfully melted into other types of sauces with the right techniques.
  • The recommendation to use small amounts of strongly flavored cheeses to avoid overwhelming the dish may not apply to all palates; some people may prefer a more intense cheese flavor and would welcome larger amounts of these cheeses.
  • The suggestion to balance sharp aged white cheddar with Parmesan might not be ideal for every recipe, as some dishes could benefit from the distinct characteristics of one cheese over the other, without the need for balance.
  • The a ...

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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

One-pot method vs oven baked mac and cheese

López-Alt weighs in on the debate between stovetop and oven-baked mac and cheese, discussing the practicality and occasions best suited for each method.

Stovetop comes together quickly with pantry staples

López-Alt points out that one of the key appeals of stovetop mac and cheese is its quick preparation time, which is akin to the convenience of boxed mac and cheese. This method is ideal for situations such as when kids' friends come over since it c ...

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One-pot method vs oven baked mac and cheese

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Baked mac and cheese is often considered more suitable for company and special occasions due to its presentation and the opportunity to add extra ingredients like breadcrumbs or toppings for a more elevated dish. The baking process can create a crispy, golden crust on top, adding texture and visual appeal to the dish, making it a popular choice for gatherings and celebrations. Additionally, the oven-baked method allows for larger batch sizes, makin ...

Counterarguments

  • While stovetop mac and cheese is quick, it may not always provide the depth of flavor and texture that some people prefer, which can be achieved through baking.
  • Stovetop mac and cheese, although convenient, might not be as nutritious as a baked version if it relies heavily on processed ingredients.
  • The idea that baked mac and cheese is more suitable for company and special occasions is subjective; some may argue that the comfort and familiarity of stovetop mac and cheese can be just as pleasing for guests.
  • Baked mac and cheese can also be prepared in advance and in large quantiti ...

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Stovetop Mac and Cheese

Additions like peas, broccoli, other vegetables

The conversation suggests that there might be various feelings about adding vegetables to a classic comfort food like mac and cheese.

Mixed opinions from kids on veggies in mac and cheese

Kenji López-Alt and Deb Perelman share their different experiences with mixing veggies into mac and cheese and how their children react. López-Alt mentions that he and his daughter enjoy adding frozen peas to their mac and cheese. However, Perelman offers a contrasting perspective, recounting an episode in which her children refused to eat mac and cheese that sh ...

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Additions like peas, broccoli, other vegetables

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Kenji López-Alt and Deb Perelman are both well-known figures in the culinary world. Kenji López-Alt is a chef and food writer known for his scientific approach to cooking, while Deb Perelman is a popular food blogger and cookbook author. Their differing experiences and perspectives on adding vegetables to mac and cheese reflect their individual cooking styles and preferences.
  • Quick pickled jalapenos are jalapeno peppers that have been pickled in a vinegar-based solution with sugar and salt. This process gives them a tangy, slightly sweet, and spicy flavor. Quick pickling is a fast method ...

Counterarguments

  • While some children may dislike vegetables in their mac and cheese, it could be argued that this is an opportunity to cultivate a taste for healthier food options from a young age.
  • The feeling of betrayal by the addition of broccoli might be mitigated by involving children in the cooking process, thereby setting the expectation that vegetables will be included.
  • The idea that quick pickled jalapenos are a tasty addition is subjective and may not cater to all palates, especially those who are sensitive to spicy foods or have dietary restrictions.
  • There is a possibility that the nutritional benefits of adding vegetables to mac and cheese are offset by the high calorie and fat content of the dish, making it less healt ...

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