Mark Kurlansky's novel 'Cheesecake' was inspired by a recipe from ancient Rome
In this episode of NPR's Book of the Day, author Mark Kurlansky explores the historical roots of cheesecake, starting with a recipe from Roman senator Cato the Elder over 2,000 years ago. This ancient recipe serves as inspiration for Kurlansky's novel "Cheesecake," which weaves together stories of different communities living on New York's 86th Street, each with their own take on the classic dessert.
The episode delves into Kurlansky's transition from nonfiction to fiction writing, his observations of gentrification in New York's Upper West Side over three decades, and his personal connection to "old world" cheesecake through his Lithuanian grandmother's recipe. Through these intertwined narratives, Kurlansky illustrates how a simple dessert can connect ancient Rome, modern New York, and generations of family traditions.
This is a preview of the Shortform summary of the Jul 23, 2025 episode of the NPR's Book of the Day
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1-Page Summary
Origins and History of Ancient Roman Cheesecake Recipe
Mark Kurlansky discusses the fascinating history of cheesecake, tracing its origins back to Roman senator Cato the Elder, who published what's believed to be the first recorded recipe over 2,000 years ago. While this historical recipe demonstrates how culinary traditions can outlive their creators, Kurlansky notes that attempting to follow Cato's original recipe today would yield incomprehensible and inedible results.
Kurlansky's Transition From Nonfiction to Fiction Writing
Though primarily known for his nonfiction works on food topics, Kurlansky has ventured into fiction with his novel "Cheesecake." The book evolved from a series of short stories about different groups living on New York's 86th Street, each making their own version of Cato's ancient cheesecake recipe. Kurlansky explains that he sees both fiction and nonfiction as paths to deeper truths, with fiction allowing him to "make up things that are true."
Gentrification of the Upper West Side, NYC
Drawing from his 30-year residence in the Upper West Side, Kurlansky describes the neighborhood's transformation through gentrification. He particularly notes its impact on elderly Jewish residents, who have been driven out, eroding the area's traditional character. This transformation serves as the backdrop for his novel "Cheesecake," which follows the changes on one Upper West Side block from the 1970s onward.
Kurlansky's Personal Experiences and Preferences Related To Cheesecake
Kurlansky shares his preference for "old world" cheesecake made with farmer's cheese, reminiscent of his Lithuanian grandmother's recipe, which featured a pie crust base. He contrasts this with the "New York-style" cheesecake, which Arnold Rubin created in 1928 using cream cheese and a graham cracker crust. For Kurlansky, his grandmother's style represents not just a preferred taste but a connection to his family heritage.
1-Page Summary
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Counterarguments
- While Cato the Elder may have published an early cheesecake recipe, it's worth noting that the concept of cheesecake may have existed in various forms in different cultures prior to his documentation.
- The assertion that following Cato's original recipe today would yield incomprehensible and inedible results could be challenged by culinary historians or experimental archaeologists who specialize in recreating ancient recipes with modern equivalents.
- The idea that fiction and nonfiction are both paths to deeper truths might be contested by those who believe that nonfiction, being based on factual evidence, is a more reliable source of truth.
- The gentrification of the Upper West Side is a complex issue, and some might argue that it has brought positive changes alongside the negative impacts, such as improved amenities and increased property values.
- The impact of gentrification on elderly Jewish residents could be seen from a different perspective, perhaps considering the broader socio-economic trends and the diverse factors contributing to neighborhood change.
- The preference for "old world" cheesecake is subjective, and others might argue that the evolution of recipes, such as the "New York-style" cheesecake, represents innovation and cultural adaptation.
- The claim that Arnold Rubin created the "New York-style" cheesecake could be contested if there were evidence of similar recipes existing before 1928 or if other individuals contributed to its development.
Actionables
- Explore the evolution of cheesecake by trying to recreate a modern version of Cato the Elder's recipe using contemporary ingredients and techniques. Start with a basic cheesecake recipe and substitute ingredients that might have been available in ancient Rome, such as honey for sugar or fresh cheese for cream cheese, to get a sense of how tastes and cooking methods have changed over time.
- Connect with the history of your neighborhood by researching its culinary past and preparing a dish that was once popular there. If you live in an area like the Upper West Side or another historically rich neighborhood, look into what foods were common in past decades and attempt to make them using old recipes or your interpretation of them, to gain a personal understanding of how gentrification might have changed the local culture.
- Honor culinary heritage by incorporating family recipes into your cooking routine. If you have a family recipe like Kurlansky's grandmother's cheesecake, use it as a starting point to create a dish that pays homage to your heritage. If you don't have a family recipe, ask relatives or explore your cultural background for traditional dishes, then prepare them to maintain and celebrate your personal history through food.
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Origins and History of Ancient Roman Cheesecake Recipe
The origins of the cheesecake can be traced back over two millennia to the time of Cato the Elder, a Roman senator who published what is thought to be the first recorded cheesecake recipe.
Cheesecake Recipe Dates Back 2,000 Years to Roman Cato, the First Publisher
Cato's Cheesecake Recipe Shows Recipes Can Outlive Their Creators
Mark Kurlansky points out that Roman senator Cato the Elder may have been the first to publish a recipe more than 2,000 years ago. This historical record illustrates that recipes, like Cato's for cheesecake, have the power to outlive their creators and persist through time.
Roman Cheesecake Recipe Is Confusing and Inedible Today
Kurlansky's Fascination With the First Recorded Cheesecake Recipe
Kurlansky expresses fascina ...
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Origins and History of Ancient Roman Cheesecake Recipe
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Counterarguments
- While Cato the Elder's recipe is significant, it is not necessarily the definitive origin of cheesecake, as variations of cheese-based cakes may have existed in other cultures prior to or contemporaneously with ancient Rome.
- The assertion that Cato's recipe is the first recorded cheesecake recipe might be contested by historians who have found references to cheese and honey cakes in ancient Greek sources, which predate Roman culture.
- The idea that recipes can outlive their creators, while generally true, might overlook the fact that many recipes evolve over time and the versions we see today are often adaptations rather than direct continuations of the original.
- The claim that Cato's original cheesecake recipe would be incomprehensible and inedible today might be challenged by food historians or experimental archaeologists who speciali ...
Actionables
- You can explore the evolution of recipes by attempting to modernize an ancient dish using contemporary ingredients and techniques. Start with researching the ingredients available during Cato the Elder's time and then find modern equivalents that can be used to recreate the cheesecake. For example, if the original recipe calls for a type of cheese that no longer exists, choose a cheese that has similar properties in terms of flavor and texture. This activity will give you a hands-on understanding of how recipes evolve over time.
- Host a themed dinner party where each guest brings a dish that is a modern adaptation of an ancient recipe. This encourages learning about historical food practices and the creative process of adapting old recipes to modern tastes. You might provide guests with a list of ancient recipes, including Cato's cheesecake, and challenge them to use the concept as inspiration rather than a strict guide, resulting in a potluck of historical flavors reimagined.
- Create a blog or social media page documenting your attempts to ...
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Kurlansky's Transition From Nonfiction to Fiction Writing
Mark Kurlansky, an author known for his nonfiction works on food topics, has ventured into fiction writing, creating a novel that weaves a story around an ancient cheesecake recipe.
Kurlansky Is Known For Nonfiction on Food Topics Like Salt and Cod but Has Also Written Fiction
Though Kurlansky is celebrated for his nonfiction on food topics, "Cheesecake" is not his first foray into the world of fiction—it's his sixth fiction book. Kurlansky began with a series of short stories about diverse groups living on the same block of 86th Street in New York City. Each group made Cato's ancient cheesecake recipe in various ways, leading to different results. Realizing the characters could interact, he decided to blend these stories together into a cohesive novel.
Kurlansky Views Fiction and Nonfiction as Paths to Deeper Truths, With Fiction Allowing Him to "Make Up Things That Are True."
Kurlan ...
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Kurlansky's Transition From Nonfiction to Fiction Writing
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Actionables
- You can explore the intersection of fact and fiction by writing a short story that incorporates an element of truth from your own life or a historical event. Start by choosing a personal experience or a historical incident you find intriguing. Then, create fictional characters and a narrative that revolves around this element of truth. This exercise will help you understand how fiction can be used to illuminate deeper truths, much like Kurlansky's approach.
- Try your hand at baking an ancient recipe to connect with historical narratives in a tangible way. Research a historical recipe, perhaps one that has been passed down through generations or is significant to a particular culture. As you prepare the dish, reflect on the stories and people associated with it. This activity will give you a sensory experience that complements the literary exploration of blending fiction with nonfiction.
- Start a book club focused on authors who blend ...
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Gentrification of the Upper West Side, NYC
Mark Kurlansky provides insight into the gentrification of New York's Upper West Side, reflecting on a history of transformation that has led to both visible change and a profound sense of loss for longstanding residents.
Kurlansky's 30-year View on Upper West Side Gentrification
Kurlansky, with nearly three decades of residence, has become an observant chronicler of the Upper West Side's gentrification. In his view, the modifications to the neighborhood have had serious repercussions, especially for its elderly Jewish residents.
Neighborhood Transformation Drives Out Elderly Jewish Residents, Eroding Traditional Character
Kurlansky notes that the area's shift has resulted in the displacement of many elderly Jewish individuals who have called the Upper West Side their home. The departure of these residents marks not only a loss of neighbors but also an erosion of the area's traditional character. The elderly Jewish community fondly reminisces the past, using the term "landslide" – a word rooted in Yiddish origins initially referring to the old Jewish community – to describe what once was the familiar social fabric of their neighborh ...
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Gentrification of the Upper West Side, NYC
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Counterarguments
- Gentrification can bring economic growth and revitalization to neighborhoods, potentially reducing crime and attracting new businesses and services.
- The changes in the neighborhood might reflect broader economic and demographic trends that are not solely negative, such as increased diversity or improved housing quality.
- Displacement is a complex issue and may not solely be the result of gentrification; other factors like broader urban development, economic pressures, and policy decisions can also contribute.
- The term "landslide" could be seen as a subjective interpretation of change, and some community members might welcome the changes that gentrification brings.
- While the departure of elderly Jewish residents is significant, it is also natural for neighborhoods to evolve and change over time, with new communities and cultures emerging.
- The narrative of loss and erosion of traditional character might overshadow the stories of new residents who contribute to the neighborhood's vibrancy and future.
- The focus on the loss of the "traditional character" may inadvertent ...
Actionables
- Explore your neighborhood's history by visiting local archives or libraries to understand its evolution. By learning about the past, you can gain a deeper appreciation for the area's heritage and the changes it has undergone. For example, you might find old photographs, maps, or newspaper articles that depict your neighborhood in different eras, which can provide a tangible connection to the community's history.
- Document the present state of your community through photography or journaling. Capture images of local landmarks, businesses, and residents that define the neighborhood's character today. This creates a personal record that can be valuable for future reflection or sharing with others who have a connection to the area.
- Engage with long-term residents in casua ...
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Kurlansky's Personal Experiences and Preferences Related To Cheesecake
Mark Kurlansky holds deep appreciation for a specific style of cheesecake tethered to his family's heritage and his personal palate preferences.
Kurlansky's Favorite Cheesecake Is Made With Farmer's Cheese, Like His Lithuanian Grandmother's Style
Kurlansky Appreciates "Old World" Cheesecake With Pie Crust for Its Unique Flavor and Family History Connection
Kurlansky fondly recalls the cheesecake made by his grandmother in the Eastern European style; one imbued with farmer's cheese and lemon, along with a pie crust as its base. Deviating from what is now commonly encountered, this "earlier version" of cheesecake brings forth a unique flavor profile as well as a profound connection to his family’s past. For Kurlansky, this variant stands as not only a tribute to his Lithuanian heritage but also as a favored indulgence for its distinct taste.
Kurlansky Contrasts His Grandmother's Cheesecake With "New York-Style" Cheesecake, From 1928, Using Cream Cheese and Graham Cracker Crust
Venturing further, Kurlansky draws a l ...
Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary
Kurlansky's Personal Experiences and Preferences Related To Cheesecake
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Counterarguments
- While Kurlansky prefers a cheesecake with farmer's cheese, others might argue that cream cheese creates a smoother, creamier texture that is more appealing to a broader audience.
- Some might contend that the "unique flavor" of the Old World cheesecake is less palatable to those accustomed to the sweeter, richer taste of cream cheese-based cheesecakes.
- The historical connection of a recipe does not necessarily make it superior in flavor or quality; it's a subjective preference that varies from person to person.
- The graham cracker crust of the New York-style cheesecake is often prized for its buttery flavor and crisp texture, which some might prefer over a pie crust.
- The evolution of cheesecake recipes, such as the New York-style, c ...
Actionables
- Explore your family's culinary heritage by asking relatives for traditional recipes and attempting to recreate them. This can give you a sense of connection to your past and introduce you to flavors and techniques that are not commonly found in modern cookbooks. For example, if you have Eastern European roots, you might try making pierogi or borscht from scratch.
- Host a cheesecake tasting party where each guest brings a different style of cheesecake, including variations with farmer's cheese, cream cheese, or even tofu for a vegan option. This can be a fun way to experience the diversity of cheesecake recipes and find out which ones you prefer. You could even include a blind tasting to see if guests can identify the type of cheese used.
- Start a recipe swap club with friends or community members where each mon ...
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