Podcasts > NPR's Book of the Day > New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

By NPR (podcasts@npr.org)

In this episode, the history and modern rebirth of gelatin-based cooking are explored. NPR's Book of the Day examines the origins of gelatin as a status symbol in the Victorian era and its evolution into popular savory and sweet dishes like "Jell-O salads" of the 1970s. The episode then examines the recent gelatin renaissance sparked by the COVID-19 pandemic and the techniques involved in mastering gelatin-based preparations.

Listeners will discover how Chef Peter DiMario reimagines classic gelatin recipes for contemporary tastes in his new cookbook "Jiggle!". From sweet treats like "Watermelon Margarita Bites" to savory dishes like a leek and potato "jello" with salmon, the episode showcases DiMario's creative and visually striking applications of gelatin across diverse culinary categories.

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New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

This is a preview of the Shortform summary of the Dec 24, 2024 episode of the NPR's Book of the Day

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New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

1-Page Summary

The history and evolution of gelatin-based cooking

Gelatin's origins and historical popularity

Originally a luxury ingredient only the wealthy could afford, gelatin is now widely available thanks to convenient packaged forms. Peter DiMario notes that gelatin was a mark of status in the Victorian era.

The 1970s gelatin craze

Gelatin-based dishes like "Jell-O salads" containing savory items like tuna and cottage cheese became trendy in the 1970s, reflecting the era's bold culinary choices.

The modern gelatin renaissance

The COVID-19 pandemic sparked renewed interest in working with gelatin, inspiring DiMario's "Jiggle" cookbook showcasing innovative gelatin recipes.

The process and techniques of working with gelatin

Understanding gelatin as an ingredient

DiMario explains that gelatin is a gelling agent derived from animal products, while agar agar serves as a vegan seaweed-based alternative.

Mastering gelatin-based preparation methods

Key techniques include layering with patience to allow each layer to set, partially setting gelatin to suspend ingredients without sinking, using oils and temperature control for easy release from molds.

Modernizing traditional gelatin recipes for contemporary tastes

Reinterpreting classic gelatin dishes

Recipes like "Grandma's Ambrosia" update nostalgic gelatin desserts with fresh flavors and presentations appealing to modern palates.

Developing savory gelatin-based dishes

Innovative savory dishes like a leek and potato "jello" with salmon demonstrate using gelatin for texture and structure beyond desserts.

Specific sweet, savory, and cocktail gelatin recipes and creations

Sweet gelatin-based treats

DiMario highlights his "Watermelon Margarita Bites" as a popular sweet treat fusing sweet and salty flavors in a creative, visually appealing way.

Savory gelatin-based dishes

The leek and potato "jello" with salmon exemplifies using gelatin to give savory dishes an interesting form and texture.

Gelatin-based cocktails and shots

Recipes like "Bloody Mary Brunch Shots" showcase transforming cocktails into playful, high-quality treats using fresh ingredients and gelatin.

1-Page Summary

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While gelatin is now widely available, its use still raises ethical concerns among vegetarians, vegans, and animal rights activists due to its animal origins.
  • The status symbol of gelatin in the Victorian era might overshadow the ethical and class implications of its consumption and the conditions of the laborers who produced it.
  • The 1970s gelatin craze, while noted for its bold culinary choices, is also often criticized for some combinations that many today find unappetizing or odd.
  • The renewed interest in gelatin post-COVID-19 might not be as widespread as suggested, with many individuals and cultures not embracing the trend.
  • Agar agar, while a vegan alternative, has different properties than gelatin and may not produce the same texture or result in recipes, which can be a limitation for some culinary applications.
  • The techniques for working with gelatin, such as layering and temperature control, may not be considered "mastering" by all culinary professionals, as some may view these as basic skills.
  • Modernizing traditional recipes can sometimes lead to a loss of the original dish's essence or cultural significance, which might not be appreciated by all.
  • The use of gelatin in savory dishes, while innovative, may not appeal to everyone's palate or dietary preferences.
  • Sweet treats like "Watermelon Margarita Bites" may not cater to those looking for healthier or less sugary options.
  • Transforming cocktails into gelatin-based treats could be seen as a novelty that detracts from the traditional enjoyment and presentation of the drinks.

Actionables

  • You can explore the art of gelatin layering by creating a visual diary of your attempts, noting the setting times and effects of different temperatures on each layer. Start with two layers and gradually increase as you become more comfortable with the process, experimenting with color contrasts and flavor combinations, like mint-infused green tea layers alternating with lemonade for a refreshing dessert.
  • Host a gelatin makeover party where you and your friends reinvent classic savory and sweet gelatin dishes with a modern twist. Each person could bring a dish that incorporates fresh, unexpected ingredients, such as a basil and strawberry gelatin salad or a spicy tomato aspic. Share the recipes and discuss the outcomes to inspire each other with new ideas.
  • Create a gelatin cocktail kit for home use that includes silicone molds, a variety of gelatin powders, a recipe booklet with fresh ingredient mixtures, and a mini-infusion kit for adding natural flavors. Use this kit to transform your favorite cocktails into gelatin form, like turning a peach bellini into a sparkling peach gelatin dessert, perfect for your next dinner party or as a gift for friends who enjoy culinary experiments.

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New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

The history and evolution of gelatin-based cooking

Gelatin's journey from a symbol of wealth to a staple in the American kitchen reflects its versatility and the changing tastes of society.

Gelatin's origins and historical popularity

Gelatin was originally a luxury ingredient accessible only to the wealthy, but has since become widely available and used.

Originally, gelatin was a mark of luxury, accessible exclusively to the wealthy who had the means to obtain the meat byproducts necessary for its creation. It’s made from these animal products that are patiently cooked down to form a gelled substance. The super wealthy of the Victorian era enjoyed gelatin in their feasts, but now gelatin is commonly found in many households, especially in convenient prepackaged powder forms like Knox gelatin.

The 1970s gelatin craze

During the 1970s, gelatin-based dishes, dubbed "Jell-O salads," became extremely trendy, featuring unusual and unconventional savory ingredients.

Gelatin's peak in popularity, particularly in America, came in the 1970s when gelatin-based dishes, known affectionately as "Jell-O salads," were the height of trendiness. This era was known for its bold and sometimes baffling culinary choices, with cookbooks from the time depicting savory items like tuna and cottage cheese encased in lime gelatin. ...

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The history and evolution of gelatin-based cooking

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • Gelatin's accessibility may have increased, but ethical and dietary considerations, such as vegetarianism, veganism, and concerns about animal welfare, have led to a demand for alternative gelling agents.
  • The popularity of gelatin in the Victorian era was not limited to the super wealthy; middle-class families also aspired to and sometimes succeeded in incorporating gelatin dishes into their menus as a sign of sophistication.
  • While gelatin is common in many households, its use has declined in some demographics due to the rise of plant-based diets and the availability of vegetarian gelatin substitutes like agar-agar and pectin.
  • The 1970s may have been a notable period for gelatin in America, but it's important to recognize that gelatin's popularity has fluctuated and been influenced by various cultural and economic factors throughout different times and regions.
  • The term "Jell-O salads" might be misleading, as not all gelatin-based dishes from the 1970s contained savory ingredients or were salads; there was also a wide variety of sweet gelatin desserts.
  • The renewed interest in gelatin during the COVID-19 pandemic might not be as widespread as suggested, with many ...

Actionables

  • You can explore the versatility of gelatin by creating a modern twist on the classic Jell-O salad using fresh, seasonal ingredients. Instead of the savory and unconventional ingredients of the past, opt for combinations that cater to contemporary palates, such as incorporating layers of pureed fruits, herbs, and edible flowers to create a visually appealing and healthier dessert option.
  • Host a gelatin art party to experiment with the medium's creative potential. Invite friends to bring different gelatin flavors and molds, and provide artistic tools like syringes or toothpicks for intricate designs. This can be a fun way to discover the artistic side of gelatin by making edible masterpieces that are as beautiful as they are delicious.
  • Develop a personal gelatin recipe book by experimenting with gel ...

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New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

The process and techniques of working with gelatin

Peter DiMario elucidates on the intricacies of gelatin, a common gelling agent derived from animal products, and shares insights into the art of gelatin-based culinary preparations.

Understanding gelatin as an ingredient

Gelatin is derived from animal products and acts as a gelling agent, while agar agar is a vegan seaweed-based alternative.

Gelatin, predominantly sourced from animal products, serves as a gelling agent in many recipes. For those following a vegan lifestyle, agar agar offers a seaweed-based substitute, although it requires slight recipe adjustments to achieve a similar effect.

Mastering gelatin-based preparation methods

Techniques like layering, suspending ingredients, and using molds are key to creating visually stunning and textured gelatin-based dishes.

Masterful techniques contribute to the allure and texture of gelatin-based dishes. Peter DiMario highlights the required patience in layering processes, ensuring each layer sets completely prior to adding the next. For suspending delicacies such as gold leaf within gelatin, one must partially set the mixture to a precise thickness that prev ...

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The process and techniques of working with gelatin

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While gelatin is indeed derived from animal products, some may argue that there are other non-animal-based gelling agents besides agar agar, such as pectin or carrageenan, which could also be suitable alternatives depending on the application.
  • The techniques mentioned for working with gelatin are not the only methods for achieving visually stunning dishes; alternative methods and ingredients can also create impressive results, such as using foams, spherification, or jellies made with different hydrocolloids.
  • Patience in layering is important, but the skill and technique involved in understanding the setting point of gelatin can be just as crucial, and some might argue that a creative approach to timing can yield interesting textures and layers without complete setting.
  • The suggestion to use a neutral oil for mold release might not be the best choice for all dishes, as some may benefit from using a flavored oil to add an additional dimension to the dish, or a non-oil-based method such as chilling the mold to contract the gelatin for release.
  • Briefly placing th ...

Actionables

  • You can experiment with creating vegan gelatin desserts by substituting agar agar in traditional gelatin recipes. Start with simple recipes like vegan jelly or panna cotta, measuring the agar agar precisely as it sets firmer than gelatin. Share your creations with friends or on social media to inspire others with plant-based alternatives.
  • Enhance your culinary presentation skills by practicing the art of suspending items in gelatin. Begin with clear gelatin and add visually appealing items like edible flowers, fruit slices, or herbs. Allow the gelatin to set partially before adding your items to ensure they remain suspended. This technique can be a conversation starter at dinner parties or a way to impress guests.
  • Develop a better understanding of how ...

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New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

Modernizing traditional gelatin recipes for contemporary tastes

Traditional gelatin recipes hold nostalgic value but can often feel outdated. To bridge the gap between cherished memories and modern taste buds, chefs and home cooks are finding creative ways to update these classic dishes.

Reinterpreting classic gelatin dishes

Recipes like "Grandma's Ambrosia" update nostalgic gelatin-based desserts with fresh flavors and presentations

In the spirit of modernization, recipes that once graced the pages of vintage cookbooks are receiving contemporary makeovers. One such dish, "Grandma's Ambrosia," is being revitalized with fresh ingredients and new presentations. By marrying the old with the new, these reimagined gelatin desserts are enticing a new generation. They retain the essence of the original but are enhanced for today's more adventurous and health-conscious palates.

Developing savory gelatin-based dishes

In a more novel approach to gelatin innovation, inventive recipes are demonstrating that gelatin's utility extends far beyond the dessert table.

Innovative recipes, such as the leek and potato "jello" with salmon, demonstrate how gelatin can be used in savory preparations

Take for instance the leek and potato "jello" topped with a sliver of smoked salmon, a dish that illustrates how gelatin can be employed to give structure and mouthfeel to savory ingredients. This approach offers a playful yet gourmet exper ...

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Modernizing traditional gelatin recipes for contemporary tastes

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • Some traditionalists might argue that modernizing classic recipes can dilute their cultural significance and authenticity.
  • There may be concerns that the focus on health-conscious ingredients could compromise the indulgent quality that many people seek in desserts.
  • The use of fresh ingredients in updated gelatin recipes might not be as accessible or affordable for all home cooks, potentially limiting who can enjoy these modernized dishes.
  • Not everyone appreciates the texture of gelatin, and even with modern twists, it might not appeal to all contemporary palates.
  • The novelty of savory gelatin dishes may not be universally appealing, as some diners might find the texture or concept unappetizing.
  • There's a risk that in the attempt to modernize, chefs could create dis ...

Actionables

  • Experiment with gelatin in your own kitchen by creating a fusion dish that combines elements from different cuisines, like a gelatin-based Mexican salsa or an Asian-inspired gelatinous dipping sauce. Start by choosing a traditional recipe from one cuisine and think of how gelatin could be incorporated to either thicken, set, or add a unique texture to the dish. For example, you might create a gelatin-thickened teriyaki sauce to accompany a sushi dish, adding a new twist to the texture and presentation.
  • Host a "gelatin potluck" where friends and family bring their own inventive gelatin dishes, encouraging a shared experience of modern and traditional flavors. Set a theme for the potluck, such as "Retro Reinvented," and ask participants to bring a dish that uses gelatin in an unexpected way. This could be anything from a savory gelatin salad with fresh herbs and vegetables to a deconstructed gelatin dessert with layers of fruit and cream.
  • Incorporate gelatin into your meal planning by substitut ...

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New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

Specific sweet, savory, and cocktail gelatin recipes and creations

DiMario's "Jiggle" cookbook serves up an assortment of gelatin-based recipes that play with the versatility of this ingredient, offering creative and visually appealing options for any gathering.

Sweet gelatin-based treats

DiMario highlights that among the sweet treats, the "Watermelon Margarita Bites" are a significant hit. This recipe demonstrates gelatin's potential to create fun and eye-catching desserts. These sparkly and party-perfect bites include a bit of salt, reminiscent of the classic margarita rim, providing a blend of sweet and savory notes.

Savory gelatin-based dishes

Moving beyond the sweetness, the cookbook also delves into savory territory. A noteworthy inclusion is the layered leek and potato "jello" with salmon, showcasing gelatin's capacity to lend structure and form to more savory culinary creations.

Gelatin-based cocktails and shots

On the cocktail front, the cookbook presents inventive recipes like the " ...

Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary

Registered users get access to the Full Podcast Summary and Additional Materials. It’s easy and free!
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Specific sweet, savory, and cocktail gelatin recipes and creations

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While the "Watermelon Margarita Bites" may be popular, some individuals may not enjoy the combination of sweet and savory flavors in their desserts.
  • The use of gelatin in savory dishes like the layered leek and potato "jello" with salmon might not appeal to everyone, as the texture and concept of savory gelatin may be off-putting to those who prefer traditional presentations of these ingredients.
  • Gelatin-based cocktails, although creative, may not be suitable for all types of gatherings, especially where guests prefer classic cocktails or have dietary restrictions that preclude the consumption of gelatin.
  • The claim that the gelatin shots are known for their tastefulness and use of fresh ingredients could be subjective, as taste preferences vary widely among individuals.
  • Some readers might be skeptical about the sophisticati ...

Actionables

  • Experiment with gelatin in your own kitchen by creating a gelatin-based appetizer for your next social gathering. Start with a simple fruit juice, add gelatin, and incorporate herbs or spices for a twist. For example, try a mint-infused lime gelatin appetizer to surprise your guests with a refreshing and unexpected dish.
  • Host a DIY gelatin dessert bar at your next family event. Provide various gelatin flavors, fruits, toppings, and molds, and let your family members mix and match to create their own personalized desserts. This could be a fun activity for kids and adults alike, encouraging creativity and experimentation with flavors.
  • Incorporate gelatin into your meal prep routine by using ...

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