Podcasts > NPR's Book of the Day > 'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

By NPR (podcasts@npr.org)

In NPR's Book of the Day podcast, the hosts examine the book "When Southern Women Cook," a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture. The book highlights the varied cultural influences that have shaped Southern cuisine, from Greek and Indian immigrant communities to the Gullah Geechee people's traditions.

The authors intentionally spotlight the crucial yet often-overlooked contributions of women of color in developing Southern foodways. They celebrate culinary legends while reclaiming authorship for misattributed dishes. From Southern staples like buttermilk pie to lesser-known specialties, the book aims to enrich the diverse culinary heritage of this global region.

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'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

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'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

1-Page Summary

The Structure and Approach

In "When Southern Women Cook," each chapter opens with an essay by a historian, author, or chef, according to Morgan Bolling. These essays provide context and personal narratives before the recipes. The book aims to showcase diverse culinary traditions and contributions of women and people of color in shaping Southern cuisine.

Culinary Diversity in the South

The authors emphasize the varied cultural influences on Southern foodways. Toni Tipton-Martin introduces recipes reflecting Greek, Indian, Mexican, and other immigrant communities. Bolling highlights an Indian dinner series blending heritage with the Southern milieu.

Tipton-Martin characterizes the South as the "global South," stressing the need to recognize its diverse roots, from dishes like Gobi Manchurian to barbecue's Greek origins.

Recipes range from Southern staples like buttermilk pie and red rice (a Gullah Geechee specialty) to the German-rooted doberge cake. Tipton-Martin restores credit for the "Aunt Jules' Pie" to its enslaved creator, Aunt Jewel.

Acknowledging Underrepresented Contributors

The authors intentionally spotlight the crucial yet often-overlooked role of women of color in developing Southern cuisine. Tipton-Martin celebrates legends like Emily Meggett while reclaiming authorship for misattributed dishes. Their work aims to expand and enrich the diverse culinary heritage.

1-Page Summary

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • The focus on essays by historians, authors, or chefs might overshadow the voices of everyday cooks and family traditions that also play a significant role in the evolution of Southern cuisine.
  • While the book aims to showcase diversity, it may still not cover the full spectrum of Southern culinary traditions, potentially omitting lesser-known or under-documented influences.
  • The term "global South" could be seen as oversimplifying the complex interplay of local and international influences in Southern foodways.
  • The emphasis on the contributions of women and people of color, while important, might inadvertently create a narrative that overlooks the collaborative nature of culinary evolution, which often involves a multitude of contributors from various backgrounds.
  • The restoration of credit to the original creators of dishes is a noble effort, but it may be challenging to ensure complete historical accuracy in attributing recipes that have been passed down and modified over generations.
  • Celebrating specific individuals like Emily Meggett is valuable, but it could also lead to a form of tokenism if not accompanied by a broader and more inclusive acknowledgment of the many unheralded contributors to Southern cuisine.
  • The book's attempt to reclaim authorship for misattributed dishes is important, but it may also lead to disputes or disagreements about the origins and ownership of certain recipes, which are often part of a shared cultural heritage.
  • While the work aims to expand and enrich the culinary heritage, it may not fully address the ongoing issues of cultural appropriation and economic disparities that affect the communities whose cuisines are being featured.

Actionables

  • You can explore the multicultural roots of your local cuisine by visiting ethnic markets and asking vendors about the history and traditional uses of their ingredients. This will give you a firsthand experience of the diverse influences in your area's food culture, similar to how the book highlights the varied cultural influences on Southern foodways. For example, if you find a unique spice blend at a Mexican market, inquire about its origins and traditional dishes it's used in, then try incorporating it into a Southern recipe you love.
  • Host a themed potluck dinner where each guest brings a dish that represents their heritage or a culture they admire, along with a story or fact about its significance. This mirrors the book's approach of pairing recipes with personal narratives and can serve as a way to collectively celebrate and learn about the diverse culinary traditions that contribute to your community's food scene. For instance, someone might bring a Greek-inspired cornbread, sharing how their family adapted the recipe after settling in the South.
  • Create a personal recipe journal where you document your own adaptations of traditional dishes, noting any cultural influences and the stories behind them. This is a way to engage with the concept of reclaiming authorship and celebrating the role of individuals in culinary history, akin to how the book credits dishes to their rightful creators. As you experiment with recipes, write down your variations and the inspiration behind them, such as how adding an Indian spice to a classic Southern stew reflects your own culinary heritage.

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'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

The structure and approach of the book "When Southern Women Cook"

"When Southern Women Cook" is a unique assembly of essays, poetry, historical context, and meticulously curated recipes that furnish an insightful portrait of the culinary landscape of the American South.

The book is structured around 14 chapters, each opening with an essay from a historian, author, or chef

Morgan Bolling details the book's comprehensive structure. Each chapter opens with an insightful essay by a historian, author, or chef. These essays serve as a prologue to the recipes that follow and contribute personal narratives and cultural revelations that enhance the cooking experience. Vivid backstories, anecdotes, and, occasionally, poetry enrich the chapters, allowing readers to connect with the recipes on a more profound level.

The book aims to showcase the diverse culinary traditions and contributions of women, especially women of color, in shaping the food culture of the American South

In an effort to honor the rich and diverse culinary heritages that women, particularly women of color, have entrench ...

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The structure and approach of the book "When Southern Women Cook"

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Actionables

  • You can explore your own family's culinary heritage by writing down family recipes and the stories behind them, creating a personal cookbook that doubles as a family history document. This activity not only preserves your family's unique flavors and traditions but also serves as a cherished keepsake for future generations. For example, if your grandmother has a special pie recipe, ask her about its origin and any memories associated with it, then document it alongside the story.
  • Host a potluck dinner where each guest brings a dish that represents their cultural background or a story from their family's history, encouraging a shared experience similar to the narratives in "When Southern Women Cook." This fosters a sense of community and provides an opportunity to learn about different cultures and cuisines firsthand. For instance, if a friend's family hails from a different part of the world, they could bring a traditional dish and share the tale of how it became a staple at their family gatherings.
  • Start a blog or social media page where you e ...

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'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

The diversity of culinary traditions represented in the American South

In their discussion, Toni Tipton-Martin and Morgan Bolling underscore the variety of cultural influences that shape the Southern United States' culinary landscape, challenging the perception of Southern cuisine as exclusively traditional fare.

The South is a region shaped by the foodways of many immigrant groups, not just the traditional "Southern" fare.

Toni Tipton-Martin introduces narratives and recipes in a book that reflect influences from Greek, Indian, Mexican, and other cultural backgrounds. Tipton-Martin discusses the diverse immigrant stories and acknowledges that those different groups have been bringing their distinctive foodways to the South since the nation's beginnings.

Morgan Bolling highlights a community-driven phenomenon where chefs of Indian descent in the Southern U.S. have started a dinner series that showcases dishes like Gobi Manchurian, blending the culinary traditions of their heritage with the Southern milieu.

The authors emphasize that the South should be viewed as a "global South," recognizing the interconnected and evolving nature of its food culture.

Bolling discusses dishes such as tamale pie, which originates from Mexican traditions, and Greek keftedes, meatballs that, although not traditionally Southern, are part of the South's diverse food culture.

Tipton-Martin stresses that the American South's foodways are based on a rich tapestry woven by various contr ...

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The diversity of culinary traditions represented in the American South

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While the South's culinary landscape is indeed diverse, some might argue that the traditional Southern fare still plays a dominant role in defining the region's food identity.
  • The influence of immigrant groups on Southern foodways is significant, but it is also important to recognize the contributions and preservation of African American culinary traditions that have been central to Southern cuisine.
  • The blending of culinary traditions by chefs of Indian descent is innovative, but it may not be widely recognized or accessible to the general population in the South.
  • The concept of the "global South" is valuable, yet there may be concerns that this perspective could overshadow the unique regional characteristics that make Southern cuisine distinct.
  • While dishes like tamale pie and Greek keftedes are part of the South's food culture, some might argue that they are not as emblematic of the region as dishes like fried chicken, cornbread, or collard greens.
  • Acknowledging the contributions of various groups to Southern foodways is important, but there may be a risk of underrepresenting the influence of certain groups if the narrative becomes too broad.
  • The role of the Greek community in establishing barbecue culture is noteworthy ...

Actionables

  • Explore your local farmers' market with the intention of finding ingredients that reflect the South's diverse food heritage, such as okra, sorghum, or collard greens, and ask vendors for their preparation tips or cultural significance. This can deepen your appreciation for the region's culinary diversity and give you a hands-on experience with the ingredients that are part of its evolving food culture.
  • Create a fusion dish at home by combining a traditional Southern recipe with elements from another cuisine you enjoy, like adding Indian spices to a classic Southern vegetable dish. This personal culinary experiment can be a creative way to celebrate and participate in the blending of cultures that characterizes Southern cuisine.
  • Host a potluck dinner w ...

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'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

Specific recipes and dishes featured in the book

Toni Tipton-Martin and Robin Young discuss a variety of recipes included in the book, emphasizing the rich diversity and complex history of Southern cuisine, from well-known traditional dishes to the acknowledgment of influential yet overlooked figures.

The book includes a wide range of recipes, from traditional Southern favorites like buttermilk pie and fried chicken to lesser-known regional specialties.

The authors highlight the broad spectrum of Southern culinary delights featured in the book.

Recipes like red rice, a Gullah Geechee specialty, and the doberge cake, with its German roots, showcase the richness and evolution of Southern cuisine.

Toni Tipton-Martin explains that red rice is a Gullah Geechee specialty and a Sea Islands dish that has familiar echoes in jambalaya. It's traced back to the West African dish known as jollof rice, illustrating the African influence on Southern cooking. Tipton-Martin also shares about the doberge cake, a Louisiana specialty with German origins that has evolved with local culture and available ingredients. It was created by Beulah Ledner in 1933 and includes layers of pudding, syrup, buttercream, and ganache.

Robin Young adds to the array of featured Southern treats by mentioning desserts such as brûlée buttermilk pie and lemon chess pie, staples of Southern baking tradition.

The authors highlight the stories behind certain dishes, such as the history and significance of the "Aunt Jules' Pie" (formerly known as the Jefferson Davis Pie).

By restoring the rightful credit to the ...

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Specific recipes and dishes featured in the book

Additional Materials

Actionables

  • Explore your local library or bookstore for cookbooks that delve into the culinary history of different regions, focusing on the contributions of marginalized groups to gain a deeper understanding of food heritage.
  • By learning about the origins and transformations of various dishes, you can appreciate the cultural significance behind the foods you eat and cook. For example, if you come across a recipe for red rice, research its Gullah Geechee and West African roots to understand the historical context.
  • Start a recipe journal where you document your experiences cooking dishes from diverse culinary traditions, noting any personal twists or local ingredients you incorporate.
  • This practice not only allows you to track your culinary journey but also helps you reflect on how regional specialties evolve when they pass through your kitchen. If you try making doberge cake, write down how you adapted it to your taste or the ingredients available in your ...

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'When Southern Women Cook' is a diverse portrait of the American South's food culture

The importance of acknowledging and crediting the contributions of women, especially women of color, to southern food culture

Toni Tipton-Martin and Morgan Bolling focus on spotlighting the crucial role of women, with particular emphasis on women of color, in defining and sustaining the rich traditions of Southern cuisine.

The authors are intentional about acknowledging the often-unsung role of women, particularly women of color, in shaping Southern cuisine.

Tipton-Martin and Bolling strive to credit those whose recipes and culinary practices have shaped food traditions, recognizing that these contributors are often women whose legacies may have been overlooked. Emily Meggett, an iconic woman from Edisto Island renowned for her red rice and other rice dishes, serves as a prime example. When Toni Tipton-Martin had the opportunity to meet Meggett, she was meeting not just a person but a legend whose recipe collection became a New York Times bestseller. Meggett's story is illustrative of the wide interest in the diverse culinary contributions throughout the country, particularly those made by women.

The authors view this book as an opportunity to correct historical narratives that have marginalized or erased the contributions of diverse communities to Southern food traditions.

Toni Tipton-Martin takes this mission further by actively working to restore true authorship to ...

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The importance of acknowledging and crediting the contributions of women, especially women of color, to southern food culture

Additional Materials

Actionables

  • You can explore and cook a recipe from a historical cookbook by a woman of color to connect with the roots of Southern cuisine. Start by researching cookbooks authored by women of color from different eras in Southern history. Choose a recipe that resonates with you or seems intriguing, gather the ingredients, and prepare the dish. As you cook, reflect on the history and the personal stories that may have influenced the recipe's creation.
  • Create a themed potluck dinner with friends where each person brings a dish inspired by a woman of color from Southern culinary history. Encourage your friends to research the background of the dish they choose and share the story behind it during the meal. This not only spreads awareness but also fosters a deeper appreciation for the diverse contributions to Southern food culture.
  • Start a virtual book club fo ...

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