Podcasts > NPR's Book of the Day > In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

By NPR (podcasts@npr.org)

Rose Levy Berenbaum's updated edition of her acclaimed "The Cake Bible" reflects the changing baking landscape over the past decades. The renowned baker has tweaked her recipes to account for modern factors like smaller eggs and taller cake pans. The revised book incorporates Berenbaum's continued research, with new techniques, tips, and nearly every recipe accompanied by a photograph.

Berenbaum emphasizes precise ingredient measurement for optimal texture and structure. She delves into her signature recipes, including an improved Chocolate Domingo cake and an innovative chiffon cake without a tube pan. The book also highlights Berenbaum's advocacy for simpler cake decoration, allowing cakes' natural beauty to shine through elegant, understated garnishes.

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In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

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In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

1-Page Summary

Changes in the Revised "The Cake Bible" Edition

Updated Ingredients and Equipment

The baking world has evolved since the original "The Cake Bible" publication. Berenbaum has tweaked her recipes to account for changes like smaller egg yolks from younger hens and taller modern cake pans.

New Content and Features

The updated edition boasts nearly every cake recipe accompanied by a photograph and incorporates Berenbaum's continued baking research, offering new techniques and tips.

Accurate Ingredient Measurement

Weighing Flour for Texture

Precisely weighing flour, rather than using cups, ensures the desired texture. Using unbleached flour can lead to a coarser crumb and sunken centers, Berenbaum notes.

Handling Eggs for Structure

To compensate for varying yolk sizes, Berenbaum recommends separating and weighing yolks and whites. Frozen egg whites can replace fresh ones for recipes requiring only whites.

Berenbaum's Signature Recipes and Techniques

Domingo Cake Improved with Water

Adding boiling water to cocoa powder enhances the Chocolate Domingo cake's flavor and texture.

Chiffon Cake Modernized

The Renee Fleming Golden Chiffon, a chiffon cake without the typical tube, showcases Berenbaum's technique for an airy texture.

Visually Striking Triple Cakes

The Triple Chocolate Proposal stands out for its intricate chocolate praline "leaves." The Triple Lemon Velvet Bundt highlights Berenbaum's beloved yellow cake recipe.

Simplified Cake Decoration

Reduced Decorating Complexity

Berenbaum advocates for simpler decoration, such as minimal buttercream on bundt cakes, letting the cakes' beauty shine.

Highlighting Natural Beauty

Cakes like the white lilac nostalgia showcase their inherent qualities with pared-down decor like pale icing and real flowers.

1-Page Summary

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • Weighing ingredients may not be practical for all home bakers, as not everyone has a kitchen scale, and some may prefer the convenience of volume measurements.
  • The assumption that smaller egg yolks are a universal change might not hold true for all regions or types of eggs, such as those from free-range or heritage breed chickens.
  • While separating and weighing egg yolks and whites can lead to more consistent results, it also adds additional steps and complexity to the baking process, which might not be necessary for all recipes or desired by all bakers.
  • The preference for simpler cake decorations could be seen as subjective; some bakers and cake enthusiasts might prefer more elaborate and traditional decorations.
  • The use of real flowers in cake decoration, while beautiful, requires careful consideration to ensure the flowers are edible and free from pesticides, which might not be practical or possible for all bakers.
  • The focus on updated techniques and trends may not appeal to bakers who are looking for classic recipes or those who value historical or traditional methods of cake baking.
  • The inclusion of photographs for nearly every recipe is beneficial for visual learners, but it could also set unrealistic expectations for home bakers whose final products might not match the professional photography.
  • The emphasis on new content and features might overshadow the timeless nature of the original recipes, which could be a draw for those seeking the nostalgia of the original "The Cake Bible."
  • The suggestion that frozen egg whites can replace fresh ones might not yield the same results in all recipes, as some bakers believe fresh ingredients provide superior flavor and texture.
  • The idea that unbleached flour leads to a coarser crumb and sunken centers could be contested by those who prefer the taste or baking properties of unbleached flour, or who prioritize unbleached flour for its minimal processing.

Actionables

  • You can experiment with ingredient ratios by baking mini test cakes to find the perfect balance for your taste and texture preferences. Start with a basic cake recipe and adjust one ingredient at a time, such as increasing the flour or changing the egg proportions, then bake small cupcake-sized versions to compare the outcomes. This hands-on approach will help you understand the impact of each ingredient on the cake's final texture and flavor.
  • Create a visual baking diary to track the effects of different techniques on your cakes. Take photos of your baking process and the finished product, noting any new methods you've tried, like adding boiling water to cocoa powder or adjusting the way you incorporate air into the batter. This visual record will serve as a reference for what works well and what might need tweaking in future baking endeavors.
  • Host a cake tasting party where guests can sample and provide feedback on cakes made with varying techniques and decorations. Prepare a few different cakes, each showcasing a different method or decoration style you've learned about, such as minimal buttercream or natural flower garnishes. This social event will give you insights into popular preferences and can inspire further experimentation in your baking.

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In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

Changes and updates in the revised edition of "The Cake Bible"

The beloved baking classic "The Cake Bible" has undergone an update to address the changes in the worlds of ingredients and equipment since its original publication.

Revised edition reflects changes in ingredients and equipment

The culinary landscape has evolved since "The Cake Bible" first shared its comprehensive guide to baking. Today's ingredients and equipment differ in subtle but significant ways that necessitate adjustments to the recipes bakers have grown to trust.

Ingredients like eggs and flour have evolved, requiring adjustments to recipes

One notable change concerns the size of egg yolks available in the market. With younger laying hens producing smaller yolks, recipes have to be re-evaluated because the size of the yolk—which acts as an emulsifier—can affect the texture of cakes, contributing to a finer crumb.

Modern cake pans are taller, necessitating recipe modifications

Another equipment change essential for bakers to consider is the height of cake pans. Most modern cake pans now measure two inches in height, a half-inch increase from the older standard of one and a half inches. This change in dimension has a substantial impact on baking times and temperatures, necessitating a careful recalibration of recipes to ensure perfect results.

New content and features in the revised edition

The revised edition doesn't just adjust to these changes—it also enriches its content, offering an expanded and visually engaging experience.

Expanded book size with nearly every cake recipe accompanied by a photograph

Reade ...

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Changes and updates in the revised edition of "The Cake Bible"

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While updating recipes for ingredient changes is useful, it assumes a standardization that may not exist globally, as egg sizes and flour types can vary widely by region.
  • The assumption that modern cake pans are taller might not consider that many bakers still use vintage or heirloom bakeware, which may not conform to the new standard.
  • A larger book size with photographs for each recipe could be seen as unnecessary for experienced bakers who may not need visual confirmation and might prefer a more compact, less resource-intensive book.
  • The incorporation of new baking techniques and tips is valuable, but it may also inadvertently make the process seem more complex or daun ...

Actionables

  • You can experiment with adjusting your own recipes by changing the size of the egg yolks you use. If you typically use large eggs, try using medium or extra-large ones and note any differences in the cake's texture. This will give you a hands-on understanding of how egg size affects baking, without needing to follow the specific adjustments mentioned in the book.
  • Create a baking journal to document how adjusting your oven's temperature or baking time affects the outcome when using taller cake pans. For example, if a recipe calls for baking at 350°F for 30 minutes, try reducing the temperature by 25°F and increasing the time by 5-10 minutes to accommodate for a taller pan. Record the results and use this data to refine your approach for future baking endeavors.
  • Host a "bake and learn" session with friends ...

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In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

Importance of accurate ingredient measurement and preparation

Accurate measurements in baking are essential for quality results, particularly when it comes to flour and eggs which are foundational ingredients for many baking recipes.

Proper flour measurement is crucial for achieving desired cake texture

Measuring flour accurately is key to avoiding common baking issues. If you don't weigh the flour and you don't measure carefully, you may end up with much more flour than intended leading to a dry cake.

Weighing flour instead of volumetric measurement ensures consistent results

Weighing flour is more reliable than volumetric measurement. Unlike using cups, where the amount can vary significantly based on how the flour is scooped, a scale ensures that the exact same amount of flour is used every time. This consistency is crucial to achieve the desired texture in cakes and pastries.

Using bleached flour rather than unbleached flour prevents coarse texture and sunken centers

The type of flour used can also affect texture and stability. If you don't use bleached flour, the cakes may have a coarser texture and are more likely to fall in the center. Bleached flour undergoes chemical processing which results in a finer grain and thus, a finer texture in the finished cake.

Precise handling of eggs is essential for emulsion and crumb structure

Eggs contribute to the structure and texture of a cake. With variations in size and composition, handling them properly can make or break a recipe.

Separating and weighing yolks and whites can compensate for changes in egg composition

Due to differing sizes of yolks from young laying hens, bakers are recommended to separate and weigh or me ...

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Importance of accurate ingredient measurement and preparation

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Emulsion in cakes is the process of combining two liquids that don't usually mix well, like oil and water in the case of eggs, to create a smooth, stable mixture. Crumb structure in cakes refers to the texture and appearance of the interior of a cake, influenced by factors like the distribution of air bubbles and the binding of ingredients. Emulsions help create a moist and tender crumb structure in cakes by evenly dispersing fats and liquids throughout the batter, resulting in a desirable texture and mouthfeel. Understanding and managing emulsion and crumb structure is crucial for achieving the desired quality and consistency in baked goods.
  • Bleached flour undergoes a chemical process to whiten it and alter its properties, resulting in a finer texture in baked goods. Unbleached flour, on the other hand, retains its natural color and may lead to a coarser texture in cakes. The bleaching process affects the protein and starch content, impacting how the flour interacts with other ingredien ...

Counterarguments

  • While accurate measurements are important, experienced bakers can often rely on intuition and adjust recipes based on look and feel, especially for recipes they are familiar with.
  • Some baking recipes are actually quite forgiving, and slight variations in flour measurement may not significantly affect the outcome.
  • Volumetric measurement can yield satisfactory results if done correctly, such as by fluffing the flour before spooning it into a measuring cup and leveling it off without compacting it.
  • Unbleached flour is preferred by some bakers for certain recipes due to its flavor profile and because it's less processed; it can still produce excellent results if used correctly.
  • The importance of separating and weighing egg yolks and whites may vary depending on the recipe; for some recipes, a slight variation in egg composition will not make a noticeable difference in the final product.
  • Some bake ...

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In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

Berenbaum's Signature Cake Recipes and Techniques

Berenbaum, renowned for crafting delightful and delicious cakes, has refined her baking techniques to elevate classic recipes to new levels of taste and visual appeal.

Chocolate Domingo Cake, Berenbaum's "Ultimate" Butter Cake, Improved with Water Addition

The Chocolate Domingo cake, once deemed the "ultimate" butter cake, has undergone an improvement by incorporating a simple yet effective technique. Adding just one tablespoon of boiling water to the cocoa powder not only intensifies the cocoa flavor but also leads to a better texture in the final product. This update exemplifies how even the slightest adjustment in a recipe can yield significant enhancements to flavor and mouthfeel.

Renee Fleming Golden Chiffon, A Modern Take on the Traditional Chiffon Cake

Berenbaum reimagines the traditional chiffon cake with her creation of the Renee Fleming Golden Chiffon. She has mastered a technique that allows baking chiffon cakes without the central tube that is typically required for support. The result is a cake with the most gossamer and amazing texture, defying old constraints and offering a modern twist on the classic airy cake.

Triple Chocolate Proposal and Triple Lemon Velvet Bundt, Favorites for Visual Appeal

The Triple Chocolate Proposal stands out as a favorite for its stunning visual appeal, particularly due to its chocolate praline "leaves," which are artfully folded sheets draped over the cake. Achieving the right texture for these leaves necessitates precise tem ...

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Berenbaum's Signature Cake Recipes and Techniques

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While adding boiling water to cocoa powder may improve the Chocolate Domingo cake's flavor and texture, some bakers might argue that the quality of cocoa powder used is more critical to the cake's final taste and that water might not make a significant difference with high-quality cocoa.
  • The technique of baking a chiffon cake without a central tube, as in the Renee Fleming Golden Chiffon, could be criticized for potentially leading to uneven baking or a denser texture, as the central tube helps with even heat distribution.
  • The visual appeal of the Triple Chocolate Proposal's chocolate praline "leaves" might be seen as overly complicated and potentially off-putting to home bakers who prefer simplicity and ease over intricate presentation.
  • The Triple Lemon Velvet Bundt cake's emphasis on visual appeal and lemon flavor might not align with all taste preferences, and some might argue that the cake could b ...

Actionables

  • Experiment with your own baking by incorporating unexpected ingredients into classic recipes to see if you can enhance the flavor or texture. For example, try adding a dash of olive oil to your brownie mix for added richness or a sprinkle of sea salt on top of chocolate chip cookies before baking for a sweet and savory twist.
  • Create a visually stunning cake by using edible flowers or herbs as decorations. If you're making a lemon cake, consider candying some lemon slices and arranging them on top, or use fresh thyme sprigs for a rustic and aromatic touch.
  • Challenge traditional baking methods by ...

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In a new version of 'The Cake Bible,' Rose Levy Beranbaum updates a culinary classic

Simplifying cake decoration and presentation

Berenbaum suggests that the key to a visually striking cake is often its inherent beauty and simplicity, rather than complex and intricate decoration.

Reduced reliance on intricate piping techniques

Berenbaum notes a shift away from complicated piping techniques in cake decoration. She finds that bundt cake designs and a simple application of minimal buttercream are often sufficient to create an appealing cake. This approach to decoration not only simplifies the process but also allows the cake itself to shine without being overshadowed by excessive adornments.

Focus on highlighting the inherent beauty of the cake

In line with the trend towards simplicity, emphasis is placed on the cake's natural textures and flavors rather than intricate and elaborate decorations. Berenbaum highlights the white ...

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Simplifying cake decoration and presentation

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While simplicity can indeed be striking, it may not suit every occasion; some events may call for more elaborate decorations to match their significance or theme.
  • Complicated piping techniques can be a form of artistic expression for bakers, and their skills in this area should not be undervalued.
  • Bundt cakes and minimal buttercream might not satisfy customers seeking a more traditional or ornate cake design.
  • The focus on natural textures and flavors might not appeal to those who enjoy the creativity and color that come with more elaborate decorations.
  • The use of real flowers, such as lilacs, on cakes can be problematic for individuals with allergies or concerns about the edibility and safety of the decorat ...

Actionables

  • You can explore the art of cake simplicity by baking a single-flavor cake and focusing on the quality of ingredients for a rich, authentic taste. Instead of reaching for elaborate decorations, invest time in perfecting your recipe to enhance the natural flavors. For example, if you love chocolate, create a deep, dark chocolate cake that's delicious on its own, without the need for heavy frosting or garnishes.
  • Try using edible flowers from your garden or local market to decorate your cakes. After baking a simple cake, like a vanilla or lemon sponge, press small, pesticide-free flowers into the top for a beautiful, organic look. This could be anything from pansies to marigolds, depending on what's in season and safe to eat.
  • Experiment with texture by using different baking p ...

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