Podcasts > NPR's Book of the Day > Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

By NPR (podcasts@npr.org)

In this episode of NPR's Book of the Day, cookbook author Khushbu Shah discusses her book "Amrikan," which adapts Indian recipes for an American audience. Shah shares essential Indian ingredients like Kashmiri chili powder and highlights how Indian cuisine in America has evolved beyond its North Indian origins through diverse immigration patterns.

The podcast delves into how Shah's recipes strike a balance between preserving tradition and incorporating fusion elements like gochujang and Bisquick—innovations that aim to make Indian cuisine more approachable and mainstream in America. With dishes like "Bombay masala toast," Shah seamlessly blends global flavors while illuminating lesser-known aspects of Indian cuisine, like street food specialties.

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Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

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Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

1-Page Summary

Adapting Indian Cuisine

Cookbook author Khushbu Shah's "Amrikan" adapts Indian recipes using everyday American ingredients like Bisquick for desserts and peanut butter in chutneys. Shah seamlessly blends a global pantry, incorporating ingredients like gochujang and sriracha alongside Indian staples.

Must-Have Indian Ingredients

Shah emphasizes three essential Indian ingredients: Kashmiri chili powder (with its distinct aroma and mild heat), kasuri methi (for authentic flavor), and curry leaves (which impart an exquisite aroma). She argues these aren't optional but vital for achieving authentic Indian flavors.

Indian Cuisine's History in America

Early Indian immigrants were largely from northern regions like Punjab and Gujarat, leading to a North Indian dominance in perceptions of Indian food in America. Shah notes Indian cuisine in America was also influenced by British-Indian cuisine.

Over time, diverse immigration patterns brought regional Indian cuisines to America, expanding the culinary landscape beyond North Indian staples.

Preserving Tradition with Hybrid Dishes

Shah believes traditions evolve - while some dishes should remain authentic, others can be innovated. Her recipes balance tradition with fusion, like her "cheesy corn pizza" and "Bombay masala toast" combining Indian flavors with American staples.

Introducing Indian Cuisine to Americans

Shah aims to make Indian food more approachable to non-Indian audiences through her book. She dispels myths that it's complicated, showcasing simple, flavorful dishes like cabbage noushak.

Her inclusion of Indian street food exposes lesser-known aspects of the cuisine, helping to make it more mainstream and familiar to general American audiences.

1-Page Summary

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While Shah emphasizes the importance of Kashmiri chili powder, kasuri methi, and curry leaves, some might argue that Indian cuisine's diversity means there are many other ingredients that could also be considered essential depending on the region and dish.
  • The adaptation of Indian recipes using American ingredients might be seen as diluting the authenticity of the cuisine, which could be a concern for culinary purists.
  • The claim that early Indian immigrants were largely from northern regions might overlook the contributions of immigrants from other parts of India to the American Indian food scene.
  • Some may argue that while British-Indian cuisine has influenced American perceptions of Indian food, this perspective might overshadow the authentic and diverse culinary practices brought directly from India.
  • The idea of evolving traditions with hybrid dishes could be seen as controversial among those who believe in preserving the original recipes and methods of traditional Indian cooking.
  • Shah's aim to make Indian food more approachable might inadvertently simplify the complexity and depth of Indian cuisine, potentially leading to a misunderstanding of its richness.
  • The focus on making Indian cuisine approachable to non-Indian audiences could be criticized for catering to Western tastes at the expense of authenticity.
  • Including Indian street food to make the cuisine more mainstream might be seen as commodifying a significant part of Indian culture for broader appeal.

Actionables

  • You can experiment with fusion cooking by substituting one ingredient in a traditional recipe with something unexpected from another cuisine. For example, try making a classic Indian dal but replace some spices with Mexican chipotle chili to give it a smoky flavor, or use Italian Parmesan cheese in place of paneer in a saag dish for a different take on creaminess.
  • Host a "global pantry potluck" with friends where each person brings a dish that includes an ingredient not traditionally used in their chosen cuisine. This encourages exploration of different flavors and demonstrates the versatility of ingredients, such as using Japanese miso paste in a marinade for tandoori chicken.
  • Create a "flavor bridge" challenge for yourself where you pick two seemingly disparate ingredients, like chocolate and cumin, and find a way to incorporate them into a cohesive dish. This could lead to innovative creations like chocolate-cumin cookies or a mole-inspired curry, blending the warmth of Indian spices with the depth of chocolate.

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Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

Adapting Indian cuisine with American ingredients

Khushbu Shah's new cookbook "Amrikan" reflects a culinary blend of American staples and traditional Indian cooking techniques. Shah draws from her childhood experiences and culinary creativity to offer a unique take on Indian dishes adapted with ingredients readily found in American pantries.

Khushbu Shah's cookbook "Amrikan" incorporates everyday American pantry staples into Indian cooking.

Shah grew up watching her mother use products like Bisquick, not in the traditional American way for biscuits, but to create galab jamun, a much-loved Indian dessert, resulting in especially tender dough. Later, Shah herself began to integrate peanut butter into chutneys as a substitute for roasted peanuts, capitalizing on the ubiquity of peanut butter in American kitchens.

In her cooking, Shah feels at home with a global pantry. She finds room for ingredients like gochujang, sriracha, soy sauce, and cream cheese alongside curry leaves. Adapting Indian dishes to include these familiar ingredients, she offers a novel twist on classics like chili cheese toast by adding a layer of whipped cream cheese for silkiness, accompanied by pickled jalapeños, and substituting traditional thin white bread with a plush Japanese milk bread.

Shah highlights three "must-have" Indian ingredients - Kashmiri chili powder, kasuri methi, and curry leaves - that add unique aromas and flavors to I ...

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Adapting Indian cuisine with American ingredients

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While Shah's cookbook may offer innovative ways to blend cuisines, some purists might argue that the use of non-traditional ingredients can dilute the authenticity of Indian dishes.
  • The use of American pantry staples like Bisquick and peanut butter might be seen as a compromise on traditional methods and flavors that are central to Indian cooking.
  • The incorporation of global ingredients such as gochujang and sriracha could overshadow the delicate balance of spices that is characteristic of Indian cuisine.
  • While Shah suggests that certain ingredients like Kashmiri chili powder, kasuri methi, and curry leaves are irreplaceable, others might argue that part of the evolution of cuisine involves adapting and finding local substitutes that can mimic or provide a different, yet satisfying flavor profile.
  • The emphasis on the necessity of traditional Indian ingredients for authenticity might not take into account regional variations within India itself, where ingredients and techniques can vary widely, challenging the notion of a singular a ...

Actionables

  • You can experiment with fusion cooking by substituting ingredients in your favorite recipes with those from different cuisines. For instance, try using a common condiment or sauce from one cuisine as the base for a dish from another. Imagine making a classic Italian pesto but with miso paste instead of Parmesan cheese, or preparing a Mexican salsa using sumac for a Middle Eastern twist.
  • Enhance your home cooking by creating a "flavor bridge" with spices. Start by selecting a spice that's common in one cuisine and research its use in another. For example, if you love the smokiness of paprika in Spanish dishes, explore how it can complement the flavors in a traditional Moroccan tagine.
  • Develop your palate by hosting a themed potl ...

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Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

The history and evolution of Indian cuisine in America

Indian cuisine in America has a rich history that reflects the changing patterns of immigration and the evolving tastes of American diners.

The initial waves of Indian immigration to the US were largely from northern regions like Punjab and Gujarat, leading to a predominance of North Indian cuisine in American perceptions of Indian food.

Khushbu Shah recounts that the early waves of Indian immigration to the United States predominantly consisted of professionals—many of whom were pursuing STEM careers—coming from northern Indian states such as Punjab or Gujarat. These immigrants brought their culinary legacies and traditions with them, leading to a strong North Indian influence on the Indian food initially available in the US. Shah also notes that much of Indian cuisine in America was influenced by British Indian cuisine, further emphasizing North Indian and Punjabi dishes, which were familiar to those accustomed to "curry house classics."

Over time, Indian cuisine in the US has evolved to reflect ...

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The history and evolution of Indian cuisine in America

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While the text emphasizes the influence of North Indian cuisine due to early immigration patterns, it may underrepresent the contributions of South Indian and other regional cuisines that have also been present in the U.S. for decades.
  • The focus on professionals, particularly in STEM fields, might overlook the diversity of early Indian immigrants, including those in other occupations who also brought their culinary traditions.
  • The assertion that British Indian cuisine influenced American perceptions of Indian food could be nuanced by recognizing the role of American restaurateurs and diners in shaping the menu and flavors of Indian cuisine in the U.S.
  • The text suggests a linear progression of Indian cuisine in the U.S., but the reality may be more complex, with regional cuisines coexisting and influencing each other rather than simply evolving from North Indian to a broader representation.
  • The idea that Indian cuisine in the US has diversified might ...

Actionables

  • Explore the evolution of Indian cuisine by creating a timeline-themed dinner party, where each course represents a different era or region of Indian culinary history in America. Start with appetizers inspired by early North Indian dishes that were first introduced to the US, followed by main courses that reflect the British Indian influence, and conclude with a variety of regional dishes that showcase the current diversity of Indian cuisine in America.
  • Connect with local Indian STEM professionals and organize a potluck that encourages sharing homemade regional specialties. This can be a way to learn directly about the diverse culinary traditions while also understanding the personal stories of immigration and adaptation that come with each dish.
  • Document your culinary journey thr ...

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Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

Preserving tradition while embracing hybrid dishes

The intricate balance between safeguarding culinary traditions and welcoming novel creations is an art that celebrates both the respect for cultural origins and the evolutionary nature of cuisine.

Shah believes that traditions and cuisines are meant to evolve, and that there is nothing wrong with incorporating new ingredients and techniques into Indian cooking.

In the realm of culinary arts, tradition often serves as a touchstone, yet it is not a static entity. Shah, a proponent of culinary evolution, advocates for the integration of new ingredients and methods into Indian cooking. She believes in the dynamic character of traditions and cuisines, embracing the idea that while certain dishes should remain unaltered to honor their origins, others may be adapted and hybridized, resulting in innovative, fusion-style Indian-American dishes that reflect a generational transition.

Shah's own cooking, and the recipes in her book, demonstrate a balance between preserving the essence of traditional Indian cuisine and embracing creative, hybrid dishes.

Shah's approach to cooking is a testament to the harmonious coexistence of authenticity and innovation. The recipes featured in her book embody this philosophy, striking a balance that respects the essence of traditional Indian cuisine while simultaneously welcoming the imagination of hybr ...

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Preserving tradition while embracing hybrid dishes

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While Shah advocates for the evolution of culinary traditions, some may argue that the introduction of new ingredients and techniques can sometimes overshadow or dilute the authenticity of traditional cuisines.
  • There is a perspective that certain traditional dishes should remain unchanged not only to honor their origins but also to maintain the integrity and historical accuracy of the cuisine.
  • The balance between tradition and innovation in cooking is subjective, and some purists might feel that Shah's approach leans too much towards innovation, potentially compromising the essence of traditional Indian cuisine.
  • Fusion dishes like "cheesy corn pizza" and "Bombay masala toast" might be seen by some as catering to a globalized palate rather than preserving the unique regional flavors that define Indian cuisine. ...

Actionables

  • You can start a recipe swap club with friends where each person brings a dish that's a fusion of their cultural cuisine with another. This encourages experimentation with flavors and techniques, and you'll get to taste a variety of innovative dishes. For example, if you have Italian heritage, you might make a curry lasagna, layering traditional lasagna noodles with a spiced tomato sauce and paneer cheese.
  • Host a "remix potluck" where each guest reimagines a classic dish from their background with a twist from another cuisine. This not only makes for an exciting dining experience but also sparks creativity in the kitchen. Someone might bring a sushi roll with traditional Mexican ingredients like spicy beans and avocado, or a Korean BBQ taco.
  • Create a personal cooking challenge where you pick a different tradi ...

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Khushbu Shah's cookbook 'Amrikan' honors the Indian American diaspora

Introducing Indian Cuisine to a Broader American Audience

Shah has embarked on a quest to make Indian cuisine more accessible and familiar to American palates. She uses her cookbook as a medium to dispel myths and showcase the simplicity and richness of Indian culinary traditions.

Shah aims to showcase the approachability and versatility of Indian cooking to a wider non-Indian audience through her book.

One of the primary missions that Shah has undertaken with the release of her book is to address the misconception that Indian food is inherently complicated and out of reach for those not well-versed in its preparations. Shah demonstrates through her recipes that anyone can enjoy the depth of flavor that Indian dishes can bring, often employing just a basic collection of spices and ingredients.

She dispels the notion that Indian food is complicated and unapproachable, demonstrating that flavorful Indian dishes can be made with just a handful of ingredients.

By introducing dishes such as cabbage noushak, Shah showcases the ease with which one can create a wholesome and flavorful Indian meal. This particular dish, consisting of stir-fried cabbage with spices, served over rice with some yogurt, underscores her message by focusing on straightforward preparation methods and the harmony of simple ingredients.

The book's inclusion of Indian street food recipes is an attempt to introduce these lesser-known aspects of Indian cuisine to American readers.

Shah knows the significance of street food in the mosaic of Indian cuisine. By bring ...

Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary

Registered users get access to the Full Podcast Summary and Additional Materials. It’s easy and free!
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Introducing Indian Cuisine to a Broader American Audience

Additional Materials

Counterarguments

  • While Shah's book may simplify Indian cooking, some critics might argue that the complexity and depth of Indian cuisine can be lost when it is overly simplified for a new audience.
  • There may be concerns that the nuances of regional Indian cooking are not fully represented when generalizing Indian cuisine for a broader audience.
  • Some Indian dishes require specialized ingredients or cooking techniques that may not be easily replicated by novices, which could challenge the notion that all Indian food is approachable.
  • The adaptation of street food recipes for a cookbook might not capture the authentic experience of eating these foods in their native context, potentially leading to a less authentic representation of the cuisine.
  • Critics might argue that making Indian cuisine more mainstream could lead to its commercialization and potential dilution of traditional practices and flavors.
  • ...

Actionables

  • You can explore Indian flavors by starting a spice club with friends where each person brings a different spice and shares a dish they made using it. This encourages learning about the spices and their uses in Indian cooking, fostering a hands-on approach to understanding the cuisine's diversity and simplicity.
  • Host a 'swap your takeout' night where you and your friends cook Indian street food recipes at home instead of ordering out. This can be a fun way to familiarize yourself with the variety of Indian street foods and appreciate their flavors and techniques in a casual setting.
  • Create a personal cooking challenge to make one new ...

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