Podcasts > Acquired > Hermès

Hermès

By Ben Gilbert and David Rosenthal

Dive into the storied history and artisanal mastery of the Hermès brand with hosts Ben Gilbert and David Rosenthal on the Acquired podcast. This episode takes listeners through the journey of Hermès, from its origins as a purveyor of high-quality harnesses for the Parisian elite to its status as an emblem of luxury. Discover the pivotal moments that shaped the company’s image and learn how Hermès capitalizes on its reputation for excellence that dates back to Paris’ transformation under Napoleon III, attracting clientele as distinguished as the Russian Tsar.

Also, the narrative explores the conception of the Birkin bag, an accessory that over time has become synonymous with refined taste. Uncover the evolution of this iconic bag and how it catapulted Hermès to new heights in the world of fashion. The dedication of Hermès to a limited production ethos, its investment in new generations of artisans, and the nurturing of skills through the École Hermès de Savoir-Faire underscore the company's unparalleled commitment to heritage and quality. Ben Gilbert and David Rosenthal unravel the intricate tapestry of this luxury brand's legacy, elucidating how each handcrafted product embodies Hermès’s deep-rooted values.

Listen to the original

Hermès

This is a preview of the Shortform summary of the Feb 19, 2024 episode of the Acquired

Sign up for Shortform to access the whole episode summary along with additional materials like counterarguments and context.

Hermès

1-Page Summary

Family legacy and early focus on équipage for horse-drawn carriages

Thierry Hermès founded the Hermès brand in 1837 in Paris, specializing in high-quality harnesses and other equestrian equipment for horse-drawn carriages. The company gained prominence alongside the transformation of Paris under Napoleon III, where societal shifts allowed more individuals to indulge in luxury goods like Hermès. The company's reputation for excellence expanded internationally when it attracted the Russian Tsar as a client. Hermès remains a family-run business, now being led by the sixth generation, which maintains a direct lineage to its heritage of craftsmanship—a legacy proudly symbolized by the iconic Hermès logo.

Creation of the Birkin bag in 1984

The Birkin bag was introduced by Hermès in 1984, conceptualized for actress Jane Birkin by then-chairman Jean-Louis Dumas. The bag's development was rooted in practicality but ultimately transformed into a luxury icon. Initially met with moderate enthusiasm, the Birkin rose to prominence over five years and significantly propelled Hermès to international stardom, redefining the brand as a symbol of the ultimate luxury in fashion circles.

Savoir-faire artisanship and limited production

Hermès's continued success is closely tied to its commitment to artisanal craftsmanship and the controlled scale of production. Each Hermès product is meticulously handcrafted, often by a single artisan, reflecting the company's deep-rooted belief in the mastery of skills passed down through generations. Production has grown but remains artisanal in nature, with workshops limited in size to promote a culture of excellence. The Ateliers are spread across France, with each maintaining the company's traditional employment size of 250-300 craftspeople.

Furthermore, Hermès invests in the cultivation of new artisans through dedicated training schools and an official degree-granting program called the École Hermès de Savoir-Faire. In alignment with this ethos, recruitment prioritizes a young, predominantly female workforce, emphasizing a commitment to national production with the majority of the artisans based in France. The brand demonstrates an unwavering dedication to its craft with a 100% graduation rate from its training centers, ensuring the legacy of Hermès's savoir-faire artisanship continues for future generations.

1-Page Summary

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Thierry Hermès attracted the Russian Tsar as a client, referring to a historical figure who held the title of Tsar in Russia. This connection helped elevate the reputation of Hermès internationally, showcasing the brand's appeal to royalty and high-profile clientele. The Russian Tsar's patronage signified Hermès's prestige and quality in the luxury goods market during that time period. This association with royalty further solidified Hermès's position as a distinguished and sought-after brand in the luxury industry.
  • Ateliers are workshops where artisans, craftsmen, or artists work together under the guidance of a master to create high-quality products or art. These spaces are traditionally associated with fostering skill development, passing down knowledge, and maintaining a culture of excellence in craftsmanship. At Hermès, the Ateliers are where the meticulous handcrafting of their products takes place, with a focus on maintaining traditional techniques and artisanal values. The Ateliers play a crucial role in preserving the heritage and savoir-faire artisanship that defines the brand's commitment to quality and luxury.
  • The École Hermès de Savoir-Faire is an official training school established by Hermès to cultivate and educate new artisans in the art of craftsmanship. It offers a dedicated program to teach traditional artisanal skills and techniques essential for creating Hermès products. The school plays a crucial role in preserving and passing down the brand's heritage of excellence in craftsmanship to future generations. Recruitment at the school prioritizes a young, predominantly female workforce to ensure the continuation of Hermès's legacy of savoir-faire artisanship.

Get access to the context and additional materials

So you can understand the full picture and form your own opinion.
Get access for free
Hermès

Family legacy and early focus on équipage for horse-drawn carriages

Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, originally from Germany, Hermès started as a harness shop in Paris focusing on équipage for horse-drawn carriages. Thierry apprenticed for 16 years under a master craftsman before opening his own shop. The company's success was buoyed by the transformation of Paris under Napoleon III, where displaying wealth became important and social stratifications became more blurred, allowing more people to buy into status symbols like those offered by Hermès.

The narrative mentions that Emil, one of the Hermès brothers, even journeyed to Russia in the late 1890s with miniature saddles and harnesses, managing to land the Tsar as a customer, requiring around 80 craftspeople to fulfill the orders. Hermès has always been a family business, passing through generations with the current leadership being the sixth generation of family control. The famous Hermès logo featuring a carriage with a waiting groom is a callback to the brand's history with equine transportation. Family members have apprenticed as creative craftspeople, ensuring a link to craftsmanship and maintaining control over both creative and business sides of the company.

Transition to automobile era with handbags and silk scarves

As the need for horse-drawn carriage equipment waned, Hermès successfully transitioned to the automobile era. The company expanded its product lineup by adding items such as handbags and silk scarves. The Oat Akuwa bag, introduced in 1902 for equestrian use, bore a resemblance to the Birkin and Kelly bags of modern times, although it was larger to accommodate saddles and boots.

Robert Dumas, part of the Hermès family, contributed to this transition. In 1935, he redesigned a smaller version of the Haut à Courroies bag into what he termed the Sac à dépêches. Though it only composed a smaller part of ...

Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary

Registered users get access to the Full Podcast Summary and Additional Materials. It’s easy and free!
Start your free trial today

Family legacy and early focus on équipage for horse-drawn carriages

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • "Équipage for horse-drawn carriages" typically refers to the equipment and accessories used for horse-drawn carriages, such as harnesses, saddles, reins, and other related items. In the context of Hermès, it signifies the specialized products and gear designed for the horses and carriages, reflecting the brand's origins in catering to the needs of carriage transportation. Thierry Hermès initially focused on creating high-quality équipage to meet the demands of affluent customers who sought luxurious and stylish accessories for their horse-drawn carriages. This emphasis on équipage played a significant role in establishing Hermès as a renowned luxury brand known for its craftsmanship and attention to detail in equine-related products.
  • During the reign of Napoleon III in France, social stratifications referred to the divisions and hierarchies within society based on factors like wealth, status, and power. This period saw a shift where displaying wealth became increasingly important, leading to a blurring of traditional social distinctions and allowing more people to access luxury goods and status symbols. Napoleon III's era was marked by a growing middle class and an emphasis on opulence and luxury, influencing consumer behavior and the demand for prestigious products like those offered by Hermès.
  • Emil Hermès landing the Tsar as a customer in the late 1890s was significant because it showcased the brand's prestige and quality, as serving royalty was a mark of excellence in craftsmanship. The Tsar's patronage also helped elevate Hermès's reputation internationally, attracting more elite clientele. This endorsement from royalty further solidified Hermès's position as a luxury brand synonymous with exceptional quality and craftsmanship.
  • In the mid-19th century, Paris underwent significant changes under Napoleon III's rule, with a focus on urban renewal and modernization. This period saw the rise of a new wealthy class eager to display their affluence through luxurious goods and lifestyles. The transformation of Parisian society led to a culture where status symbols, like those offered by Hermès, became increasingly important for individuals to showcase their social standing. This shift in societal values influenced the demand for high-end products and luxury items, contributing to the success of businesses catering to the elite.
  • The Hermès logo featuring a carriage with a waiting groom symbolizes the brand's historical connection to equipage for horse-drawn carriages. It reflects the company's origins in crafting high-quality harnesses and accessories for horse transportation. The logo serves as a visual reminder of Hermès' heritage and expertise in luxury goods associated with equestrian culture. The image of the carriage and groom embodies the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and tradition.
  • The transition from horse-drawn carriages to the automobile era marked a significant shift in transportation methods. As automobiles became more prevalent, the demand for horse-drawn carriage equipment decreased. Hermès adapted to this change by expanding its product offerings to include items like handbags and silk scarves, catering to the evolving needs of its clientele. This transition showcased Hermès' ability to innovate and stay relevant in a changing market landscape. ...

Counterarguments

...

Get access to the context and additional materials

So you can understand the full picture and form your own opinion.
Get access for free
Hermès

Creation of the Birkin bag in 1984

The Birkin bag, now synonymous with luxury and status, has an origin story rooted in functionality and serendipity.

Designed by Jean-Louis Dumas for actress Jane Birkin

Although the specific details of the creation are not detailed in the provided content, the Birkin bag, introduced in 1984, was created by Hermès' then-chairman Jean-Louis Dumas for the actress Jane Birkin. It has become one of the most iconic and sought-after bags in fashion.

Catapults Hermès to global fame

The Birkin bag’s association with Hermès has been suggested to play a significan ...

Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary

Registered users get access to the Full Podcast Summary and Additional Materials. It’s easy and free!
Start your free trial today

Creation of the Birkin bag in 1984

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • The specific details surrounding the creation of the Birkin bag by Jean-Louis Dumas for Jane Birkin are not extensively documented. This lack of detailed information contributes to the mystique and allure of the bag's origin story. The focus is often on the collaboration between Dumas and Birkin, emphasizing the functional and luxurious aspects of the design. The bag's evolution into a symbol of status and fashion has overshadowed the precise circumstances of its inception.
  • The lackluster initial response to the Birkin bag upon its release in 1984 may seem surprising given its current status, but it's important to note that luxury items often take time to gain recognition and popularity. Factors such as limited ...

Counterarguments

  • The Birkin bag's status as a symbol of luxury may perpetuate exclusivity and elitism in society.
  • The popularity of the Birkin bag could be seen as a result of effective marketing rather than the bag's inherent qualities.
  • The idea that the Birkin bag catapulted Hermès to global fame might overlook other factors that contributed to the brand's success, such as its heritage, craftsmanship, and other product lines.
  • The narrative that the Birkin bag's popularity grew significantly within five years may oversimplify the complexities of fashion trends and consumer behavior.
  • The association of the Birkin bag with luxury and status does not necessarily reflect ...

Get access to the context and additional materials

So you can understand the full picture and form your own opinion.
Get access for free
Hermès

Savoir-faire artisanship and limited production

Hermès's dedication to craftsmanship and quality is evident in their operational strategies and corporate culture. The luxury brand has managed to maintain its independence, unlike other luxury brands that have conglomerated.

Focus on artisan skills passed from master to apprentice

Pillar of Hermès culture and commitment to quality

The commitment to quality at Hermès is profound, emphasized through their detailed and precise handcrafting process. Hermès has traditionally valued the skills that are passed down from master to apprentice, manifesting in products that are notable for their high quality, durability, and aesthetics. The hosts discuss Hermès’s integration of generational apprenticing in their atelier, implying that traditional skills are valued and maintained through hands-on learning. It's about taking the time to ensure each piece is perfected, like the single artisan crafting each Kelly bag over 20 hours across several weeks.

Expansion of production while retaining small workshops

Each workshop limited to 250-300 employees

Despite the time-intensive nature of producing handcrafted goods, Hermès has successfully scaled artisanal production. All Hermes items carry unique identification, including the craftsperson's mark, and goods are sometimes repaired by the same artisans who made them, highlighting the importance of individual craftsmanship. Currently, there are 31 Hermès Ateliers across France, with each workshop preserving the traditional size limit of 250-300 employees.

Training schools and programs to develop new artisans

The brand not only focuses on passing skills within their existing artisan community but also actively invests in the development of new craftspeople through training schools and programs. Hermès has opened its first official degree-granting program, the École Hermès de Savoir-Faire. This step shows their commitment to training new artisans, counterbalancing the limitations that come with their high standards for quality and exclusivity. Indeed, Hermès's growth ...

Here’s what you’ll find in our full summary

Registered users get access to the Full Podcast Summary and Additional Materials. It’s easy and free!
Start your free trial today

Savoir-faire artisanship and limited production

Additional Materials

Clarifications

  • Hermès integrates generational apprenticing in their atelier by passing down artisanal skills from experienced masters to new apprentices. This tradition ensures the preservation of traditional craftsmanship techniques and values within the brand. Through hands-on learning and mentorship, Hermès maintains a commitment to quality and excellence in their handcrafted products. The integration of generational apprenticing emphasizes the importance of heritage, skill development, and the continuity of artisanal expertise at Hermès.
  • The traditional size limit of 250-300 employees for each Hermès workshop is a deliberate choice to maintain a focus on artisanal craftsmanship and ensure quality control. By keeping the workshops relatively small, Hermès can preserve the tradition of handcrafted luxury goods and the intimate, personalized touch that comes with them. This size limit allows for a more hands-on approach to production, where each artisan's contribution can be carefully monitored and maintained. It also helps Hermès uphold its reputation for exclusivity and attention to detail in every piece they create.
  • In the context of Hermès goods, the significance of individual craftsmanship in repairs lies in the preservation of quality and authenticity. When the same artisans who originally crafted an item are involved in its repair, they can maintain the original craftsmanship standards and ensure a seamless restoration process. This practice reinforces the brand's commitment to artisanal excellence and highlights the value placed on the unique skills and expertise of each craftsperson.
  • Hermès deliberately controls the pace of training new artisans to maintain the high quality and exclusivity of their handcrafted products. This strategic approach ensures that each artisan receives thorough training and upholds the brand's standards. By limiting the influx of new artisans, Hermès can preserve the traditional craftsmanship and attention to detail that define their luxury goods. This measured approach reflects Hermès's commitment to excellence and the longevity of their artisanal heritage.
  • Hermès strategically recruits and ...

Counterarguments

  • Hermès's focus on artisanal quality may limit its ability to meet market demand, potentially alienating customers who face long wait times for products.
  • The emphasis on traditional craftsmanship may hinder innovation in design and production techniques that could benefit the company and the industry.
  • The strategy of maintaining workshops with a limited number of employees could be seen as a way to keep production exclusive and prices high, which may not align with all consumers' values.
  • The unique identification and the possibility of goods being repaired by the same artisans who made them, while emphasizing individual craftsmanship, may not be as scalable or efficient as other luxury brands' approaches.
  • The focus on training and recruiting artisans with a strategic demographic (average age of 30 years, 80% women) could be criticized for not being diverse enough in terms of age and gender representation.
  • While Hermès's commitment to domestic production in France is commendable, it may raise questions about the brand's global inclusivity and the potential benefits of a more international production approach.
  • The 100% graduation rate from Hermès's training programs could be scrutinized for accuracy or for potentially ...

Get access to the context and additional materials

So you can understand the full picture and form your own opinion.
Get access for free

Create Summaries for anything on the web

Download the Shortform Chrome extension for your browser

Shortform Extension CTA