Dive into the storied history and artisanal mastery of the Hermès brand with hosts Ben Gilbert and David Rosenthal on the Acquired podcast. This episode takes listeners through the journey of Hermès, from its origins as a purveyor of high-quality harnesses for the Parisian elite to its status as an emblem of luxury. Discover the pivotal moments that shaped the company’s image and learn how Hermès capitalizes on its reputation for excellence that dates back to Paris’ transformation under Napoleon III, attracting clientele as distinguished as the Russian Tsar.
Also, the narrative explores the conception of the Birkin bag, an accessory that over time has become synonymous with refined taste. Uncover the evolution of this iconic bag and how it catapulted Hermès to new heights in the world of fashion. The dedication of Hermès to a limited production ethos, its investment in new generations of artisans, and the nurturing of skills through the École Hermès de Savoir-Faire underscore the company's unparalleled commitment to heritage and quality. Ben Gilbert and David Rosenthal unravel the intricate tapestry of this luxury brand's legacy, elucidating how each handcrafted product embodies Hermès’s deep-rooted values.
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Thierry Hermès founded the Hermès brand in 1837 in Paris, specializing in high-quality harnesses and other equestrian equipment for horse-drawn carriages. The company gained prominence alongside the transformation of Paris under Napoleon III, where societal shifts allowed more individuals to indulge in luxury goods like Hermès. The company's reputation for excellence expanded internationally when it attracted the Russian Tsar as a client. Hermès remains a family-run business, now being led by the sixth generation, which maintains a direct lineage to its heritage of craftsmanship—a legacy proudly symbolized by the iconic Hermès logo.
The Birkin bag was introduced by Hermès in 1984, conceptualized for actress Jane Birkin by then-chairman Jean-Louis Dumas. The bag's development was rooted in practicality but ultimately transformed into a luxury icon. Initially met with moderate enthusiasm, the Birkin rose to prominence over five years and significantly propelled Hermès to international stardom, redefining the brand as a symbol of the ultimate luxury in fashion circles.
Hermès's continued success is closely tied to its commitment to artisanal craftsmanship and the controlled scale of production. Each Hermès product is meticulously handcrafted, often by a single artisan, reflecting the company's deep-rooted belief in the mastery of skills passed down through generations. Production has grown but remains artisanal in nature, with workshops limited in size to promote a culture of excellence. The Ateliers are spread across France, with each maintaining the company's traditional employment size of 250-300 craftspeople.
Furthermore, Hermès invests in the cultivation of new artisans through dedicated training schools and an official degree-granting program called the École Hermès de Savoir-Faire. In alignment with this ethos, recruitment prioritizes a young, predominantly female workforce, emphasizing a commitment to national production with the majority of the artisans based in France. The brand demonstrates an unwavering dedication to its craft with a 100% graduation rate from its training centers, ensuring the legacy of Hermès's savoir-faire artisanship continues for future generations.
1-Page Summary
Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, originally from Germany, Hermès started as a harness shop in Paris focusing on équipage for horse-drawn carriages. Thierry apprenticed for 16 years under a master craftsman before opening his own shop. The company's success was buoyed by the transformation of Paris under Napoleon III, where displaying wealth became important and social stratifications became more blurred, allowing more people to buy into status symbols like those offered by Hermès.
The narrative mentions that Emil, one of the Hermès brothers, even journeyed to Russia in the late 1890s with miniature saddles and harnesses, managing to land the Tsar as a customer, requiring around 80 craftspeople to fulfill the orders. Hermès has always been a family business, passing through generations with the current leadership being the sixth generation of family control. The famous Hermès logo featuring a carriage with a waiting groom is a callback to the brand's history with equine transportation. Family members have apprenticed as creative craftspeople, ensuring a link to craftsmanship and maintaining control over both creative and business sides of the company.
As the need for horse-drawn carriage equipment waned, Hermès successfully transitioned to the automobile era. The company expanded its product lineup by adding items such as handbags and silk scarves. The Oat Akuwa bag, introduced in 1902 for equestrian use, bore a resemblance to the Birkin and Kelly bags of modern times, although it was larger to accommodate saddles and boots.
Robert Dumas, part of the Hermès family, contributed to this transition. In 1935, he redesigned a smaller version of the Haut à Courroies bag into what he termed the Sac à dépêches. Though it only composed a smaller part of ...
Family legacy and early focus on équipage for horse-drawn carriages
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The Birkin bag, now synonymous with luxury and status, has an origin story rooted in functionality and serendipity.
Although the specific details of the creation are not detailed in the provided content, the Birkin bag, introduced in 1984, was created by Hermès' then-chairman Jean-Louis Dumas for the actress Jane Birkin. It has become one of the most iconic and sought-after bags in fashion.
The Birkin bag’s association with Hermès has been suggested to play a significan ...
Creation of the Birkin bag in 1984
Hermès's dedication to craftsmanship and quality is evident in their operational strategies and corporate culture. The luxury brand has managed to maintain its independence, unlike other luxury brands that have conglomerated.
The commitment to quality at Hermès is profound, emphasized through their detailed and precise handcrafting process. Hermès has traditionally valued the skills that are passed down from master to apprentice, manifesting in products that are notable for their high quality, durability, and aesthetics. The hosts discuss Hermès’s integration of generational apprenticing in their atelier, implying that traditional skills are valued and maintained through hands-on learning. It's about taking the time to ensure each piece is perfected, like the single artisan crafting each Kelly bag over 20 hours across several weeks.
Despite the time-intensive nature of producing handcrafted goods, Hermès has successfully scaled artisanal production. All Hermes items carry unique identification, including the craftsperson's mark, and goods are sometimes repaired by the same artisans who made them, highlighting the importance of individual craftsmanship. Currently, there are 31 Hermès Ateliers across France, with each workshop preserving the traditional size limit of 250-300 employees.
The brand not only focuses on passing skills within their existing artisan community but also actively invests in the development of new craftspeople through training schools and programs. Hermès has opened its first official degree-granting program, the École Hermès de Savoir-Faire. This step shows their commitment to training new artisans, counterbalancing the limitations that come with their high standards for quality and exclusivity. Indeed, Hermès's growth ...
Savoir-faire artisanship and limited production
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